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Fritz's Forehead 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: McNeil
Page Views: 639
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2005

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5.10a 200ft Bolts and Gear

This route starts 20 ft right of Wiggy on the arete. Gently climb up the schist reaching left to clip the first bolt on the arête. Pull over onto the arête and follow the bolt line up the face. Super fun 5.9/5.10 moves. After about 55 feet bale into the deep crack, placing gear up to _as big as you want_. After about 75 feet you will emerge out of the crack and begin clipping bolts pulling super fun moves on dinner plates to the anchors of Curly.


Bolts and gear of all sizes

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By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Jun 30, 2009

This routes name is Fritz's Forehead. I thought it was in the 10a range when I first did it. My last name is spelled McNeil
Apr 9, 2016

For those of you who don't have the pro or the guts to take on the upper part of the stemmy crack, it is easy to bail to the right and traverse to the second to last bolt of Curly's first pitch. Clip the final bolt and gain Curly's first anchor. Use long runners to reduce rope drag. Belay up your partner, get reestablished, and clip bolts to the a point where you are just under the roof of Curly's second pitch. Veer off to the left traversing on good holds and clip the bolt that you would encounter if you were just leaving Fritz's dirty crack. Enjoy the dinner plate petina holds and gain the anchors. You will need to bring a couple small nuts, 1 smaller cam (Black Diamond Yellow C3) and at least three hand sized pieces (Black Diamond 1,2 and 3) for the fun fist crack that you encounter before the crack gets really wide, fairly vegetated and hard to protect. "Fritz's Curly Forehead" is a variation that allows you to skip the hard first pitch of Curly, bipass the horrible part of Fritz's upper crack, or will allow you to try out the roof pull on Curly's second pitch until you wuss out, lower, and enjoy the bolted upper section of Fritz. Do what you want. No pressure. A good time will be had by all.
By Mike McNeil
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Feb 9, 2017

I don't remember the crack being all that dirty, but it has been a while. Probably all the lichen scrubbed off the face when all the later routes went in Duane. Haha

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