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Durrance Approach
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Black-Jones Direct T 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 
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Durrance T 
Fritz's Fantasy S 
interesting problem below, The T 
Late for Dinner T 
Liken Lichen T 
Lovely Liana T 
Manifest Destiny T 
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Wiessner T 

Fritz's Fantasy 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Frank Sanders
Page Views: 5,974
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 28, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Ranger Bill gropes through yet another fantasy.

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A great face climb up the Wiessner Column. Sustained throughout with a handful of cruxy moves and occasional rests. There are a few loose flakes to beware of. Overall it is excellent.

Belay from a bolted station a ways below the column and solo up wide cracks (or bring some large pieces) to the first bolt. Resist the temptation to stem to the neighboring columns!


12 draws + anchor.

Photos of Fritz's Fantasy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The big picture on Fritz's Fantasy.
The big picture on Fritz's Fantasy.
Rock Climbing Photo: A rare face climb on Devils Tower, FRITZ'S FANTASY...
A rare face climb on Devils Tower, FRITZ'S FANTASY...

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By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 13, 2006

Is staying on the pillar contrived or does stemming make the route harder? If you can easily stem to other good holds and it keeps the route in the grade or makes it easier then stem, otherwise it is contrived and does not deserve 4 stars. Get your second to clean off the loose flakes next time.
By Kyle P.
From: Lander, WY
Feb 21, 2009

Stayin on the column isn't contrived. The holds on the climb force you to traverse left/right on the column several times. Getting into the cracks next to the climb could be trouble because you wouldn't be able to reach the bolts, and getting back to them will wear you out. Best to stick to what you have in front of you. Hardest .10 I've done in Wyoming.
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 22, 2009

It is a bit easy to stay in the OW at the beginning (on the right side of the pillar), but was very happy I got on the face after the second bolt.

Exciting face moves and strenuous mantles!

I'd also swear there were around 14-15 bolts. I could also be crazy.
By Shawn Heath
From: Forchheim, Germany
Sep 25, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Super fun, technical climb. It'll remind you that you can climb on super tiny holds, or no holds at all. Also, you can place a .75 or #1 camalot in a horizontal crack between the 11th and 12th bolts. If you're short and can't reach the 12th bolt from the good stance, you'll be glad if you had placed that cam.
By Jeff McLeod
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

What an absolute pleasure to climb, although I cheated and stemmed out a couple times. 5.10b my ass! This is a stout 5.10 face climb with strenuous, delicate moves. It seems to go on forever. If you're not comfortable soloing 5.6 or so to get to the first bolt, bring some wide gear for the offwidth. It took longer than I expected.
By doliver
May 23, 2015

Climb this route as a link up with Wiessner. climbed the wide crack the whole way up to the Durrance rap bolts, then up the corner crack to the belay bolts. Stout wide crack over there but if your into that sort of thing its pretty rad, grade still felt like 5.10 OW, could be done on gear but it have to be big bro's and #6's. Didn't have a guide book so I was just going for what looked cool, ended up climbing a pretty sweet final direct pitch after the meadows with some fun roof moves.
By Alex Zucca
From: University Heights
Mar 26, 2016

Do you have to climb other pitches to get to the base of this route?
By Jason Todd
From: Cody, WY
Mar 27, 2016

Yes. You have to climb the Durrance Approach pitch, but it is plenty easy if Fritz's Fantasy is your goal.
By Todd Felix
Oct 14, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route! I underestimated it because I expected 5.10b. Sustained. Thoughtful. Long. About halfway up I muttered "Apperently Ol' Fritz didn't fantasize about rests!" Then found some rests on the second half. It sure felt like 5.11 climbing to me. And we had just climbed Soler Eclipse the day before, so we had a good comparison.

Perhaps stemming will keep the grade down to 5.10b, but the arête feels like 5.11 to me.

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