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Fritzie's Honor T 
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Fritzie's Honor 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 2000 Steve Adler & Mike Caruso 2014 Tom Rosecrans & Co.
Season: May - Oct
Page Views: 220
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Sep 26, 2014

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Steve Adler and Mike Caruso top-roped this route in 2000, after finding out the crag's neighboring cliff (Sugarloaf) was off-limits. Sugarloaf gained public access in Spring 2014, and the surge of interest engendered by that event overflowed onto this small crag. A sizable crew began visiting, Tom Rosecrans among them. This route deserves the attention he gave it.
Stick-clip the starting bolt, then make a hard move to get situated on the ramp above the overhang. Head up and left into the dihedral, and let the game begin. Stem, jam, layback upward to a point where the angle eases momentarily. Continue up a few feet, toward a series overhangs stepping right up the steepening face - but don't go up them. Instead, step around the corner onto the face to the left, head up to a right-facing flake/corner and take it to its end, then move up and right on the slab to the anchor. The stepped overhangs are perhaps slightly harder than 5.9+.


This is the prominent right-facing dihedral a short way up the right-rising ramp. The dihedral begins above a sharply-pointed head-height overhang; the route's starting point and probably its hardest move - though there are plenty more above.


Standard Adk. Rack plus extra QDs. Several bolts along the way, and an anchor shared with BLF .

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By Jim Lawyer
Dec 14, 2015

An interesting historical note: this route was cleaned in the 1990s by David Buzzelli, but he never returned to climb it.

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