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Upper Washbowl Cliff
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Butterflies are Free T 
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Wiessner Route T 
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Wiessner Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Fritz Wiessner (of course)
Season: Spring Summer Fall
Page Views: 4,032
Submitted By: Michael John Gray on Mar 30, 2009  with updates from Nolan Huther

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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View from top of P2

Wiessner's routes are an amazing thing to climb some 80 years later... 

Up and Left of Hesitation to the first big corner.
On the left wall look up and see a chimney to a block roof sticking out of the Rock.

Pitch One: Climb the chimney to the block roof, climb the block to the left side and jam past this 5.6 crack to easier climbing. Belay is optional on ledge after small roof. Continue up the path of least resistance to the giant 3rd class ledge.

Move the belay to the far back of the ledge where there are three options for the last pitch.

Pitch Two: Follow the R. most crack/dihedral 30' to the top.
V1 Follow the middle (5.8) finger crack to the top. Nice couple of moves!
V2 Follow the Left Crack/Corner to the top (5.6)

Photos of Wiessner Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gunks local Ryan C. working his way through the no...
Gunks local Ryan C. working his way through the no...
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch, crux was still wet
Last pitch, crux was still wet
Rock Climbing Photo: P2
Rock Climbing Photo: P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking out at the valley from midway up the chimn...
Looking out at the valley from midway up the chimn...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch One

Comments on Wiessner Route Add Comment
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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Jun 20, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

The guide has this described as three pitches (4 if you count the 3rd class traverse).

I did the standard route. Found gear to be lacking for a few moves near the top of P2, in the blocky wide chimney part above the roof before the tree belay/rap. Issue here is the amount of rope out, slack from the pro placed, and low angle of the pitch. Fall would likely be 15 feet onto low angle rock/ledge, even when done right. That means PG.

Also thought the protection on the last pitch was unlikely to stop me from decking, stances were predetermined and spread the first couple pieces a little too far apart. Great climbing nonetheless.

Definitely link P1 and 2 if you have a full rack. #3 cam was handy to protect the roof on P1. There's a few ways to pull the small roof on P1, the belly flop (as describe in the adk rock guide book) is optional.
By Ian Dibbs
Aug 6, 2011

The block up about 40 feet can be a bit of a challenge for a 5.6 route ...
First and second pitches can be linked without too much trouble,
A 70 meter rope will just make the ground from the first tree when decending
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 12, 2011

I found the right side of the block to be the easier way to surpass it. A "belly flop" is not required if you use all the available holds. And yes, definitely link P1 and P2 unless you need to "coach" your second through the block crux.
By Benjaminadk
From: San Pedro, California
Sep 27, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

choss. this route is full of loose, ready to break off in your hand rock. still worthwhile and fun. felt a lil PG before getting good gear in a thin diagonal crack near the top of P2. would describe this as an adventure route.
By JeanGClimbs
From: Reading, VT
Aug 19, 2013

The crux block move is awkward right or left (I tried right and it didn't work for me so I went back left.) I think if you are a bigger person (I am small) you might have more success right jamming your leg in on the right side of the block. Anyway, this route is well worth doing IMO. The rock quality didn't feel any worse than that found on parts of Hesitation - it is alpine and you simply need to be comfortable with that in order to handle (and ENJOY) the second pitch, which is really quite fun. The whole route is really just fun, easy climbing to the top with one awkward crux at the block on P1.
By JeanGClimbs
From: Reading, VT
Oct 14, 2013

Just climbed this again yesterday (following this time allowed me to try something new!) Kevin is right - there is indeed a way to climb up onto the block without making a strenuous and awkward belly flop type move.
By mattparrilla
Jun 8, 2015

Descent: The walkoff on climber's left is the easiest way down. No need to shwack along the cliff to the far right rappel and then walk back to your stuff. Just follow the heard path left at top-out and then down toward the base of the climb. No more challenging than hiking down the approach. Highly recommended!
By baldclimber
From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Oct 9, 2016
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

There is a piton in the horizontal directly underneath the crux block on P1. This pin combined with a 0.75(green) BD C4 right in the vertical crack to the left of the block protect the crux nicely. I made the mistake of placing another piece higher where my hands needed to go.
There is lots of loose rock "sitting" on the various ledges of this route - be careful.
P2 (or P4 in the guidebook) has a lot of good looking pro opportunities in vertical cracks but many are formed by very hollow sounding plates. Good gear is available but you have to carefully check it.

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