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Fritter and Waste T 
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Fritter and Waste 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Lee Terveen and Joel McKillop (Ground Up)
Season: Spring, Summer and Fall. Mostly shady all day until late afternoon.
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: BBQ on Jun 26, 2016

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Enjoying the first pitch.

Description 

Pitch 1: Is known as "Pump Up The Jams" and goes at about 5.10a. If you are a fan of Knob Goblin and Fool of a Took you will absolutely, positively want to get on this first pitch. Starts with a layback crack system that protects with Black Diamond #1 and #2 cams. Insert a good sized nut or two after the crack peters out and stand up to gain a bolt. Enjoy some engaging, steep face climbing on solid crimps, with a few savior jugs, for a few more bolts and be ready to run it out after the last bolt on easier, yet demanding terrain. The pitch ends at a blobby knob of rock on a shoulder with some webbing around it. Feel free to rap off here if the 5.13 climbing that lays ahead is going to make you fritter and waste the hours in an offhand way.

Pitch 2: Wail your way up a bitchin' 5.13 layback sequence that roughly follows an incipient crack feature that takes no gear. Follow wicked fun and sporty holds located on the top blob of rock that sits on the summit of the formation. Protects with a few bolts.

Location 

East face of the formation in the gully between Spire 1 and Spire 2. If you find yourself at the base of the Reppy Variation of Spire 1 just walk into the corridor and down the hill a bit. If you find yourself near God's Own Drunk on Khayyam Spire walk west towards Tuning Fork and head uphill high into the gully where the terrain almost becomes flat again. Route is located on a rounded buttress.

Protection 

Finger sized gear, medium sized gear and about a half dozen quickdraws.


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By lee terveen
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Jul 2, 2016

Route established Ground up. Bolts placed on lead using hooks to hand drill.
By harrison t
From: Black Hills, SD
Jul 4, 2016

Doubt it

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