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BETA PHOTO: Fright Night (5.12a). First pitch with both bolts...
Fright Night climbs the right facing tips dihedral immediately left of Human Fright up to the giant hanging flake with a bolt on it. The crux is the P2 hard slab protected by bolts. Mostly 5.11 climbing. The crux on P1 can be bypassed on the right to keep all of P1 at easy 5.11. Both pitches can be easily top roped from the Human Fright anchors. I recommend doing P1 as P2 was not nearly as interesting (just my opinion).
P1 80': Start at the bush just left of Human Fright and climb the very thin fingertips dihedral to a bolt that protects the moves when the dihedral no longer accepts gear. An 11- technical crux is found right here. Continue climbing straight up to the gigantic hanging flake with a bolt on it. Clip the bolt from a good stance. Climb straight up and onto the flake for the 11+ P1 crux. Or you can lieback the flake out right and move up onto the flake from the right (about 5.10). The flake is sharp underneath, but not bad on the top and feels very good and solid. Continue up to the P1 anchors that are shared with Human Fright. Bolts and rap rings.
P2 110': Climb straight up the easy section of P2 of Human Fright, but head straight up and onto the face left of the dihedral to the bolts. The 4 bolts here protect the 5.12a crux, which is hard slab. Shares the belay with Human Fright at the bush on the good ledge above.
Both pitches can be rapped with a single 70m. Probably a 60m as well, but not sure.
Immediately left of Human Fright
. The first bolt is easy to spot.
Rap off with a single 70m (probably 60m works too) in two raps, or continue up to the top of Tahquitz on the route of your choice and walk off.
Small wires to 1.5" cams.
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 22, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
1st pitch is beautiful. singles from .3" to 1.5" is plenty except for doubles of blue alien and red ball-nut. make sure that your stoppers include some very small ones; I used a #1 stopper about 6' above the crux on the first pitch.
Aug 27, 2010
No specialized gear like ballnuts required (or even helpful) IMO.
By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Apr 14, 2017
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
followed my buddy on this, he didn't use ball nuts but he did place 2-3 brass nuts