REI Community
Main Cliff Right
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Charity Case S 
Charity Toad S 
Cherry Pie T 
Crack Addict S 
Crowd Pleaser S 
Dead Toad S 
Easy Street T 
Flawless Victory S 
Freebird T 
Friendship Tower S 
Get a Grip S 
Get It On S 
Happy Hooker T 
High Roller S 
Magic Helmet S 
Model Citizen S 
Run Out T 
Stained Glass Ceiling S 
Stairway to Heaven S 
Tipping Point S 
Toady Dreams S 
Tour De Toad S 
Wendell's Route T 
White Toad T 

Friendship Tower 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tom Bowker 1992
Page Views: 855
Submitted By: lee hansche on Oct 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Justin Guarino on the towers first crux

Description 

Not a classic by a long shot but it contains some really fun moves... the problem with the route is the vegitation, loose rock, and rope drag but what do you want... We get greedy dont we... haha...

Start by mantling on to a shelf and working right until it is possible to pull over the roof... Continue up staying right of the bolts... After clipping the last one traverse left across the line of bolts with your hands on a ledge... Mantel then make one last move around a small tree and on to the quick clips...

Location 

The first bolted route left of the three 5.12s at the far right side of the cliff before it bends up the hill... Starts by climbing on to a right leaning ramp/shelf...

Protection 

7 bolts to quick clips...


Comments on Friendship Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jun 25, 2015

This is in the running for the worst route I've done at Rumney. It's dirty, always wet, bolted weirdly, and generally sketchy all around, though I'm told that some people (i.e., Lee) like this kind of climbing.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Jun 25, 2015

Curious what else is on that list, Jay.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 26, 2015

haha i'm just impressed that you did it jay!
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Jun 26, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Hey Lee, Jay is bitchin you for giving it one star. He must think I'm a lunatic for giving two stars!!!
By steve chardon
Oct 7, 2015

OK .... I just led this route today. The bolting with the resulting rope drag was a bummer towards the top, but .... in the Fall the climb is dry, there is no dirt, and it was sustainingly interesting. After the low crux, if you follow the bolts straight up, it is clean and challenging and fun. Don't go right off into the lichen and dirt.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jul 21, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Jay, worst route at Rumney? Sheesh. I thought the mantle and balancey traverse were interesting, and the overhang was fun. At the top, I think it's simpler to finish just to the right of the last bolt, rather than do the dirty, highly vegetated hand traverse to the left (which is about 5.2 anyway).

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About