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Friends T 
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 800'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: J.Martin and C.Dale, 1980
Page Views: 58
Submitted By: Tom Gnyra on Apr 20, 2016

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A worthwhile 5 pitch route for Kananaskis with great wilderness panoramas on good rock. Approach by biking from Barrier Lake Dam for half hour plus then thrashing up through the woods for 15 minutes to the base of the rock. The crux 4th pitch is recognized by the pale white strip and a one bolt belay was drilled after the only gear – a slung block, fell off during our 1999 ascent. To descend, walk off north through the upper forest and down.

1.) Find the corner with a horizontal roof high above. Climb up on fun 5.5 rock to a ledge with one bolt.

2.) Either continue up the corner(5.7) and move off right to a ledge with a bolt or leave the belay and traverse right then straight up(5.6).

3.) Enjoyably go up and into a short corner and to a one-bolt anchor(5.7).

4.) Climb up and into the left-facing corner(5.9). Grunt up it, pass a bolt, and try to clip a high pin or run it out left to the one-bolt ledge belay: falling here would be a nasty swing into the corner, however sustained, it’s not desperate. The pin is hard to clip.

5.) Go up from the belay on fun rock directly above the anchor (5.9) to a tree belay.


A gear list may include: TCUs and cams from 2”-3.5”, medium nuts/Tri-Cams, and a good assortment of pins. Unfortunately, rope lengths are forgotten, but twin 55m works.

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