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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: energized bolter(s)
Page Views: 2,858
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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Halfway up the climb with unclipped first bolts.

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  • Description 

    This is a long line that starts up a mini-buttress just left of a tree. Can be done in two pitches, but a 60m rope works fine.

    Start up a short slab with your right fingers in a good crack past 3 closely spaced bolts. Note, the 3rd bolt can pin the rope a bit as you climb above. Ascend the short, right-facing dihedral, (optional cam) or force the line a couple feet right on face holds. Surmount the bulge, move up to the 2 bolt anchor. You can belay or continue up past 5 more bolts on easy, blocky terrain along an arete of sorts to another 2 bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.

    Note on P2, there is a weird variation that can go right from the 2nd bolt, clipping an additional 3 more bolts in 10 feet and popping over a roof to clip another bolt or two, 5.8. It will add rope drag and may not be worth it. Bring more QDs with longer slings if you do this variation.

    The first 15 feet warrant a star, but the upper bit may detract from this star.

    Location 

    This starts up a mini-buttress just left of a tree just right of the start for Lichenthorpe.

    Protection 

    11 bolts & small cam (perhaps a red Alien or #0.5 Camalot) if done in 1 pitch.


    Comments on Friends Add Comment
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    By Joncharlesdavis
    May 24, 2015
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I used a #2 c4 after 3rd bolt.
    By Matt Bentley
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 12, 2017
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    You could place a big nut (#11) after the 3rd bolt (I think) in a crack on the left with an extension to sew this up if it makes you nervous. I didn't feel it was entirely necessary, but it's there if you want it.

    Also, with a 70m rope I did this in one pitch with plenty of rope to spare.
    By Brandon Heimbichner
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Jun 7, 2017

    The right bolt at the anchor could use a tighten. It's still sturdy, but you are currently able to spin it a couple millimeters.

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