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Friends in High Places 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 230', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
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Submitted By: Larry S on Apr 12, 2015

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With intensive cleaning or more traffic this could be a worthwile route, thought it is currently overgrown with small trees, poison ivy, and loose rock. Hit it in the early spring before the foliage comes in.

Starting on the slab next to the open book that begins the rib, move up a groove to a small roof atop the slab. Pull this on the right end, then pull up the larger roof at the middle on obvious jugs (well protected, but last decent gear for a bit). Continue up until you reach a grassy ledge. Belay on 1-1/2" gear at the left end of the ledge.

P2 - Climb up the corner above the belay, then head hard right, fighting Poison Ivy and a birch tree, then move up onto the soft sloping dirt ledge (Loose rocks!), and weave thru the small trees to 20' of gorgeous crack (reminiscent of CCK at the Gunks) At the end of the crack, move left, avoiding a stack of loose-looking blocks and a tree, then up to the top. Belay on small gear or trees.

Descend via The Rib with 2 single rope rappels or 1 double rope rappel.

Rope drag on P2 could be pretty bad with the way the route wanders. For an alternative, Continue P1 straight up from the belay ledge (looks unprotected), and do a semi-hanging belay below P2.


Right of The Open Book of the rib is a short slab, some tiered overhangs of blocky rock, and a prow/buttress. The route climbs the slab, thru the overhangs, and belays under the prow, then continues up the face and inside corner right of the prow.


Extra active gear in the 1-2" size is helpful for the route as described - At the P1 belay there aren't many other options. A 4" piece is useful but not req'd. Also used a 00 to protect the runout above the overhang, but it was pretty sketchy.

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