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Jimmy Cliff - East Face
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Bronto's or Us, The T 
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Fiendish Fists T 
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Third World T 

Friendly Hands 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Powell & Alan Roberts 1981
Page Views: 1,451
Submitted By: Graham Roff on Jan 15, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: Jon Hartmann onsighting Friendly Hands with calm p...

Description 

A fun, if short, route up the east face of Jimmy Cliff. An awkward start onto a ramp leads quickly to the crux moves pulling around into and up an off-fingers crack. Delicate liebacking with careful balance will see you through two or three tricky moves to easier terrain above. Protection is easy to place before starting the hard moves, but you may be above your gear before you can get another piece in.

Fun route, it would get another star if it were longer (and closer to the road).

There are few (if any) hand jams to be had.

Protection 

Protects well with small to medium cams. Bolted anchor with somewhat sketchy slings.


Photos of Friendly Hands Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: JK following the Friendly Hands
JK following the Friendly Hands
Rock Climbing Photo: Hogan pulling the 10b crux and glad he's on TR, if...
Hogan pulling the 10b crux and glad he's on TR, if...
Rock Climbing Photo: Friendly Hands to the left, Fiendish Fists to the ...
BETA PHOTO: Friendly Hands to the left, Fiendish Fists to the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fiendly Hands is the obvious line in the middle
BETA PHOTO: Fiendly Hands is the obvious line in the middle
Rock Climbing Photo: No, it's not a hand crack.
No, it's not a hand crack.

Comments on Friendly Hands Add Comment
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By Murf
Jan 28, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good thin hands through the crux. While I've always wondered whose perfect hands the route name references, it ain't a lieback. For those who think this route is far from the road, I got good news and bad news. The good news is you've got more great routes than you ever thought possible yet to do. The bad news is Jimmy Cliff isn't far from the road.
By C Miller
Administrator
From: CA
Jan 28, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

An area favorite with good rock, good gear and some nice jamming up an obvious feature. The transition moves from the ramp into the crack proper are exposed and way cool. This route is perfect hands for those with smaller hands. Three stars out of five, but only because it's not longer and more sustained.
By Mike Hack
Jan 28, 2005

I couldn't get my hands in the crux section either, had to layback, and then transition (like an easy Woman's Work) to get a good jam above. Must be "Friendly" in the sense there are so few jams to hurt your hands!
By Randy
Jan 28, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Perhaps this route is rife with "friendly hands" in the same way that Perfect Fingers is a "perfect finger crack."

Relatively short approach (flat and about 20 minutes).
By Crack Addict
From: San Diego, CA
May 8, 2005

"Friendly Ring-Locks" is a more appropriate name for me and my digits. Loved the climb.
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 16, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Thin hands in the business section, it struck me as an advanced version of Overseer. Somewhat awkward, but easy, getting onto the ramp, and awkward but not as easy getting off the ramp. Pretty high quality.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 8, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As good as cracks get in JTree - except for the length. The business is green and purple camalot size... tight hands, big fingers for me.
By Bob Gaines
Dec 12, 2009

Kevin Powell, Frank Bentwood and I replaced the anchor bolts with 1/2 inch diameter stainless steel bolts with rings, December 2009.
By Richard Shore
Dec 6, 2010

deceptive route name. Not a hand jam to be had on this thing, but it is good! More like unfriendly thin-hands
By Cat Cahoon
From: Seattle, WA
Dec 7, 2012

sucks for you guys. I definitely jammed the whole way!!! thought the route was great, just short.

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