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Baby Face S 
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Direct Route, The S 
Friendly Fire S 
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Tail Tucker Arete S 

Friendly Fire 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 500'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Worrall, Sean Shannon, et all
Page Views: 340
Submitted By: SCherry on Nov 17, 2014

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  • Description 

    Long harder route up the left side of the "Left Wall". 4 really nice and sustained pitches. Only marred by a chossy easy pitch in the middle. Exercise care when climbing this pitch so that you don't send any big rocks flying to the base.

    To find the start drop downhill for 100ft from Lunch Rock and follow a cactus covered ramp that leads uphill from the low point of the wall (this low point is where the "Direct Route" begins) for about 50 ft. From here you should be able to spot a pillar or tower that is split off from the wall. The first pitch of "Friendly Fire" climbs up to the base of this tower and then up the right side to an amazing perch on top.

    Pitch 1(11a); Climb up the right side of the split pillar or tower to an amazing double bolt belay perched on top! This climb has a lot of nice laybacking, and chimneying. Good trad technique will help.

    Pitch 2(12a); Hard off the belay trying to get established in a short left facing corner with jams. Pull up out of the corner to the right and you'll be on a small ledge with an optional belay station. From here climb right on a cool slab with sweet patches of grippy orange rock and a separate tricky crux (5.11), to a hidden belay around the corner in a big dihedral that is shared with "Prime Climb".

    Pitch 3(11b/c); Climb up the arete and slab to the left of the big dihedral passing a few tricky sections. This is a pretty sustained pitch that could use a little more cleaning. Towards the end the climb enters another smaller dihedral that is left of the main corner of "Prime Time". After about 25 feet of climbing up this corner a belay is found with a small foot ledge.

    Pitch 4(5.10); Warning: this pitch is still pretty dirty and chossy. Exercise caution not to let any big blocks go flying. Climbs up the corner and out right towards the grassy, tree and cactus covered large ledge. Optional belay here in the brush, or continue up from the ledge another 40-50 feet to another large ledge below a buttress of steep rock guarding the summit.

    Pitch 5(11c); Nice steep, pumpy climbing leads up a tricky corner at the start to a big layback flake. Good route reading is key. After the flake tackle a tricky roof and rest up before a final 40 feet of stemming and jamming up a corner to the top. Nice pitch deserving of more traffic.

    Location 

    Starts left of the shared start for "Direct Route" and "Prime Time", Up and left on the cactus covered ledge system that traverses up toward the Sanctuary Corridor and the routes on the far left side of the face. Look for a large spire or tower feature that you climb onto for the first pitch.

    Protection 

    16 quickdraws. All belays are bolted


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