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Friend of the Devil 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: ccox
Page Views: 1,310
Submitted By: Colin Cox on May 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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I handed Sam the F.A. attempt. He took it gracious...


Clean your shoes and lace them up tight. Climb the beautiful multicolored face on slopey bumps and scoops. A balancy crux lunge finishes the initial sculpted face. Afterward, stay to the left on hard to see features, climbing the left side of the arete. Don't get sucked right into The Acquaintance. Typical dacite micro features on the arete lead to good TOP OUT holds. Enjoy the great exposure while standing on top.


Scramble/solo 75 feet up left of grotto to the ledge at the base of the upper wall, or use fixed line off to the left.


bolts to anchor.

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By Joel Unema
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 28, 2013

Probably the best pitch on Mt Elden? I have yet to climb a better one. Bring your A-game and your best footwork.
By Colin Cox
May 29, 2013

I'm glad you enjoyed these routes Joel. Get up to the One Wall some day and check out Topical Rush. I believe that is the most bad ass sport climb on Elden. If you do....don't forget to top it out!
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 30, 2013

I was just telling him about the One Wall... Hiked up there a few months back, and low and behold it is as impeccable as overhanging dacite gets. Nice work on that Colin. And I hear they regraded Elden Lookout Rd too!
By Colin Cox
Jun 6, 2013

Thanks. Yeah... the graded road makes the adventure accessible to anyone with a car. High clearance vehicle no longer needed.

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