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Lloyd's Rock
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Borneo T 
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Friend Eater T 
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Friend Eater 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Don and Karen Wilson, April 1986
Page Views: 711
Submitted By: C Miller on Apr 10, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Heading around the corner to the bomber hand crack...

Description 

Start as per Flawless Fissure then step right and climb a slanting crack up and right.

Perhaps not quite as good as Flawless Fissure but a fun climb and worth doing if at the crag.

Protection 

pro to 3"


Photos of Friend Eater Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lloyd's Rock
BETA PHOTO: Lloyd's Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Beth Shilliday above the crux.
Beth Shilliday above the crux.

Comments on Friend Eater Add Comment
Show which comments
By M. Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
May 3, 2004

Better than Flawless Fissure in my opinion. 1.5 stars out of 3.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Mar 27, 2006

After placing good piece just before easing round the corner - it seems compelling to march up the crack to a good rest spot and put your next piece in, but you may want to linger and put a piece in lower, just for the second so he/she doesn't have to climb a blank face if they come off the crux.

Now I know why it's called Friend Eater, got 2 cams stuck and needed finesse for the first and brute force for the second, thanks Mike Newheart.
By tony grice
Nov 13, 2006

Watch out for the spicy step around move in the beginning.
By Kyle Wills
From: Chicago, IL
Dec 14, 2015

Definitely more enjoyable then the Fissure, DONT MISS OUT! Great moves around the corner, top could be more sustained but the perfect hands is fantastic after the thin stuff. Had no issue with 'stuck gear' although someone overcammed a brand new BD X4 purple in the 'fissure', good luck getting it out, I gave up.

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