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Frieda's Flake 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 2,056
Submitted By: Andrew Carson on Jan 9, 2009

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Jascha on P1

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This enjoyable route offers a chimney pitch with an awkward narrow crux near the top, before reaching a comfortable belay ledge outside the chimney. Another pitch leads up the crack that is a continuation of the chimney, then out right onto the face and up steep enjoyable climbing to the last pitch of Johnny Vegas, which is the most natural finish. Though Handren's guide describes this route as a two pitch climb, you'd really have to stretch it out to do it that way, and three pitches seemed more comfortable.


Frieda's Flake is a conspicuous white pillar or flake between Johnny Vegas and the base of the Solar Slab Gully. The route climbs the right side of the pillar. Scramble 4th class from the bottom of SSG area up into an alcove at the base of the chimney. Descent options from the Solar Slab Terrace are well known.


Standard rack to 4". Having a big cam (#3 or #4) for the crux is handy, but not absolutely mandatory. Pro options are good throughout if you look around.

Photos of Frieda's Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: pool at the base of the route
pool at the base of the route
Rock Climbing Photo: P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Frieda's Flake. The route climbs the chimney and c...
Frieda's Flake. The route climbs the chimney and c...

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By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 23, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A good option for reaching routes on the Upper Slab for those who've done Beulah's and Johnny Vegas already. Pro is there where you need it. I used two #4's.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Mar 19, 2013

P1 is full-value with beautiful rock and plenty of moves at the grade. Some technical stemming and cool roof sequences make this pitch a more engaging line than a few of its neighbors.

We took doubles to #4 but probably could have gotten by with a single #4 as there are smaller cracks on the sides which can be used for pro. If you only take a single #4, save it for the beginning of the crux.

We belayed on the first comfy ledge above the end of the chimney slot and broke the climb into three pitches. That first belay takes #2's and #3's.
By Royal
From: Santa Rosa, CA
Feb 6, 2016

Good route but go into it knowing that is is by far and away the trickiest to figure out on this wall. It's not a no fall zone like the friar, but you have to do some head scratching for sure.
By Flavaflav
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 7, 2016

Save #4 for second crux, it's more confusing than the first.

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