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Fried Chiggin Buttress 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Dangerous Dave, the Turntable Slave (or Taco and Amanda)
Page Views: 144
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on May 17, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Go to that crack. Climb it. Start of P2.


This one is pretty fun, no joke. You go up a face which provides easy and interesting climbing with the oddball proteciton opportunities typical of the range. You can belay up and right next to the nice ledge. This is a good idea for communication reasons. Traverse left from here across an easy if unprotected face for a car length, then up a crack. Use some long runners here so the ropedrag doesn't kill you.

From here, you have two options. Continue up and over loose ground. You'll weave your way left and up, making the ropedrag horrendous, until you can reach a bigass Oak tree. You know, a fixed belay station well before this point would be excellent. One can rapp from the webbing on this tree to a class 3-4 ledge at the base with a 60m.

The second (superior) option is to climb up the crack, and onto a ledge on the right, which forms the top of a short wall. Walk along this ledge and you'll find a rapp station (minimalist) at a tree. I've cleaned a lot of loose rock from here but be careful, as obviously there's a ton more. Rapp down to pitch 1 tree on Clown Syndrome, then rapp from that tree. Might make it to the deck with a 70m from the first tree.

There is still a lot of loose rock on the route, to include two very dangerous sharp flake-like things. Be careful.

Route is somewhere in the 5.0-5.7 range. Pick a number. I wanna say the start is 5.2c+, with the crux being "hella stanky leg". Unlock the dope swag crux moves by doing the Dougie. If it's raining or snowing, the rock might be wet. Add a w to the end of the rating to survive.


This route heads up the dihedral left of Clown Syndrome up easy ground, then left to gain the crack. But, you know, take whatever way you want. I just follow the most protectable ground, cause this shit can be loose.


I reckon a double rack to 2, with one 3 and one 4. I like offset nuts, a single set was fine. Bring 4 draws or whatever for the nuts. 60m rope.

Small, flexible cams under 1" are really useful. Bring a bunch if you have em.

Photos of Fried Chiggin Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Amanda is 'getting it', whatever 'it' is. As you c...
Amanda is 'getting it', whatever 'it' is. As you c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Amanda belays from the ledge atop Clown Syndrome. ...
Amanda belays from the ledge atop Clown Syndrome. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Terrible beta photo. The red line covers a cool cr...
BETA PHOTO: Terrible beta photo. The red line covers a cool cr...

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