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Friday's Jinx 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dean and Paul Fry
Page Views: 1,439
Submitted By: ferrells on Dec 14, 2008

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With an ominous description in the Watt's guide about decking and hospital trips, this route was not at the top of my to-do list. But after several trips of not being able to find an open bolted route to warm up on, we brought the rack, and found this route. It was better than expected, but not as good as Pack Animal.

I linked the pitches with a 70m rope. What I found was a stiff first pitch (I mistakenly did the Infinity Variation, 10-, the real approach pitch of Friday's Jinx is better.) with poor rock and not great gear. The top pitch, however, was great - a long, fairly technical dihedral. There are actually some moves on this thing! The gear and rock are good on the second pitch. For someone looking to warm up for the dihedral on Zebra Zion, this pitch would be a good way to do it.

Unfortunately, the chains are too high to allow a single rappel with a 70m rope. This made for a much less pleasant outing. If anyone is up for placing lower anchors, it would be nice to not force the climber to ascend the last 20-40 feet of chossy crap, and allow a rappel (and slingshot belay) with a 70.


Right of Infinity Crack in the Four Horseman, and left of the two 5.10s.


Set of nuts, cams from yellow alien to #3 camalot. You could bring an extra #2 camalot.

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By Shapp
Oct 28, 2009

If you use double rope method for leading, which really helps with rope drag on the first pitch, then rapping is not a problem, besides you can walk right around the corner and rap cinamon slab. A second set of anchors at the top would be lame. Actaully, when I first climbed this route in about 1992, there were not bolts at the top. You could get a big stopper in the slot and wedge your body for a body belay in the top slot.

For a 5.8 variation, take the first pitch of Fridays jinx, then climb the straight in crack out left for the second pitch.
By DWech
From: Fort Collins
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Agree with Shapp, but if you don't use a double-rope method, bring long slings to protect P1, as it wanders from side to side. Also agree that anchors on top would be a bad idea, as a party rapping from the top would land right on top of a party launching up P2... just walk over to C Slab and wait for an opportunity to descend into the horde.
By Phill T
May 29, 2012

there are chains at the top of p2 and a 60 will get you down in 2 raps. The p2 dihedral is sweet!
By another Chad
Feb 18, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

The first pitch is not a casual 5.7 (is it even 5.7?). P2 is fun, aesthetic and easily protectable. Watch out for some loose rock on the dash to the belay notch at the very top.

By Ashort
From: Tacoma, WA
Apr 3, 2014

Fun climb, but I don't get the R rating in the book. A bolt protects the traverse then there is decent gear. I suppose you could probably still find a way to deck if you fell at the wrong time and blew some gear. The crux on P1 felt a little stiff for 5.7, but it's all there. P2 is really fun!

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