All Locations > New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Rainbow Slabs > 4. The Perfect Wave Slab

Friday's Friends

Name: Friday's Friends
Rating: 3.0

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in 4. The Perfect Wave Slab

L › R R › L A › Z

	An "Unknown" to White Line Fever T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Bonsai T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Bubbles T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Crazy Woman Driver T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Cruise Control T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	First Wave, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Friday's Friends T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	No Bansai Here S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Perfect Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Petroglyph, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Silver Surfer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
	Super Slab T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	V-2 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches
FA:	R.H. & R. W. 2014
Page Views:	851 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

3 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: You may see the Peregrine Falcons closure signs for Painted Walls on the approach path to Rainbow but, so far, Rainbow has always remained open. Details

Description

The route starts by climbing the rock a few feet right of Super Slab. The climb was cleaned and the bolts placed only after the quality was confirmed. Named for the two, independent Top-Rope-Soloists who happened to meet at Rainbow on Fridays.

Approach - Same as for Bonsai

START - The same START as Super Slab.

P1 - (See "Bonsai Slab" Topo) Start essentially on "Super Slab’s faint dike" but immediately go straight up to gain the "scooped" stance (bolt above). Climb into the shallow, rounded, left-facing corner (5.7), clip 2nd bolt then step right and up past two ledges (bolt#3) and climb the cleaned face left of the non-gear, right-curving flake (4th bolt). Gain the good ledges (about the level of Bonsai's tree; fixed angle piton to your left) and then step right [Var] and straight up easy, darker-colored rock (passing a rap anchor on the right) to the right end of the tree island above [5.3-5.4 R/X] . Move the belay to the LEFT side of the tree island (1 bolt + small tree and maybe some gear at belay). 130-140 ft 5.7

Variation (RECOMMENDED: May be drier, and less lichen) - Once at the easy ledges, continue straight up lighter-colored rock to intercept Bonsai; take this up to gain the belay at the left end of the tree island. [5.3 R]

P2 - From the left end of the tree island, step left and then straight up headed for a tiny overlap. Two bolts and then Continue up easily [5.2-5.3 R] , moving right slightly to the 2-bolt anchor shared with Bonsai.

Originally thought to be about 5.7, subsequent ascents of P2 have found an easier way past the 2nd bolt and overlap. 5.5 - 5.6 100 ft

Descent - From the double bolt anchor, make two raps with a full-length, single 60m rope. The second rap station is on the right 15-20 ft below the small tree island-belay.

If you want to do it all in one long rap with doubled 60Meter ropes BEING SURE TO GO TO CLIMBER'S/RAPELLER'S RIGHT (viewer's / rope-thrower's LEFT) OF THE TREE ISLAND.