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4. The Perfect Wave Slab
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Bonsai T 
Bubbles T 
Crazy Woman Driver T 
Cruise Control T 
First Wave, The T 
Friday's Friend T 
Perfect Wave T 
Petroglyph, The T 
Silver Surfer T 
Super Slab T 
Take A Giant Step 5.8+PG / 5.7-5.6 PG-R T 
Tsunami T 

Friday's Friend 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 225'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: R.H. & R. W.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 87
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 8, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Friday's Friend/ "Bonsai Face" topo

Description 

The route climbs the line a few feet right of Super Slab. The climb was cleaned and the bolts placed only after the quality was confirmed. Named for the two, independent Rope-Soloists who happened to meet at Rainbow on Fridays.

Approach - Same as for Bonsai

START - The same START as Super Slab.

P1 - (See "Bonsai Slab" Topo) Gain the "scooped" stance (gear at feet). Climb into the shallow, rounded, left-facing corner (5.7), clip bolt then up past two ledges (gear) and climb the cleaned face left of the non-gear, right-curving flake (bolt). Gain the good ledges (at the level of Bonsai's P1 belay) and then straight up easy rock to the right end [Var] of the tree island above. Move the belay to the LEFT END of the tree island. 130-140 ft 5.7
Variation (RECOMMENDED: May be drier, and less lichen) - Move left and intercept Bonsai to gain the left end of the tree island.

P2 - From the left end of the tree island, step left and then straight up headed for a small overlap. Clip the one bolt below the overlap and climb over it. Continue up easily, moving right slightly to a 2-bolt anchor shared with Bonsai.
Originally thought to be about 5.7, subsequent ascents of P2 have found an easier way past the bolt and overlap. 5.5 100 ft

Descent - From the double bolt anchor, Rap with 2 60Meter ropes to the ground BEING SURE TO GO TO CLIMBER'S/RAPELLER'S RIGHT (viewer's / rope-thrower's LEFT) OF THE TREE ISLAND.
Alternately, traverse 150-200 ft left across the slab to the Silver Surfer Rap Station.

Protection 

draws for the bolts, maybe smaller cams down low.


Photos of Friday's Friend Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Friday's Friend Pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Friday's Friend Pitch 1

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