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Third Flatiron
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Saturday's Folly T 
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Unnamed (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 
Waiting For Columbus T,S 
West Door T 
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 
Winky Woo T 
Wrongs of Fall T 
Unsorted Routes:

Friday's Folly 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA:  Hornbein and Waldrop, 1950
Page Views: 12,350
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (70)
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The backside of the 3rd, showing all of Friday's F...

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  • Description 

    This is a great single pitch route on the backside of the Third Flatiron. Be aware that it is very close to the rappel route and it may be an unwise idea to climb this route if people are descending from the summit.

    The most fun way to reach this route is to climb the East Face, and rap down the back of the Third. This will deposit you at the bottom of Friday's Folly. Climb up the obvious crack on the corner until it is possible to step around the corner to the right (after about 10 feet.) From here, follow the cracks and holds up the vertical face with great exposure. Belay at one of the two eyebolts 70 feet off the ground.


    A set of nuts and a set of cams.

    Photos of Friday's Folly Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Friday's Folly.
    Friday's Folly.
    Rock Climbing Photo: West side of the Third Flatiron.
    BETA PHOTO: West side of the Third Flatiron.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Short shorts are our friend.
    Short shorts are our friend.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Above this you follow a right leaning crack with g...
    Above this you follow a right leaning crack with g...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the climb, as visible from the base o...
    The start of the climb, as visible from the base o...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The top pin is the Clog 1/2" angle that was p...
    The top pin is the Clog 1/2" angle that was p...
    Rock Climbing Photo: This is an old Clog 1/2" angle that was pulle...
    This is an old Clog 1/2" angle that was pulle...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Headlamped TR.
    Headlamped TR.
    Rock Climbing Photo: At the fix pin, peering around the corner. It's ve...
    At the fix pin, peering around the corner. It's ve...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The initial hard move. This is protected by a fair...
    The initial hard move. This is protected by a fair...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb on the runout arete on Friday's Folly Di...
    Tony Bubb on the runout arete on Friday's Folly Di...

    Comments on Friday's Folly Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 17, 2015
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Jan 28, 2002

    This is a wonderful route. The exposure, great jams, good pro, and neat face moves will kept you smiling. One set of cams to a #3-3.5 Camalot and a few large nuts will get you to the anchors. A brown tricam for the initial piton scars and an extra hand size cam might be useful for the timid.
    By Leo Paik
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Mar 8, 2002

    You can finish this with Friday's Folly Direct and then West Door to the top of the 3rd. It gets spicier and more interesting. However, West Door amazes you as you think about Layton 3rd classing this 5.7 sandbag (for most mortals).
    By Ben Mottinger
    Founding Father
    Sep 16, 2002
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    You won't find a better F7 pitch.
    By Mike Epke
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 6, 2003

    Great route with some super exciting exposure almost from the first move. The first move can be protected very well with a yellow alien and from then on all the gear is easy to place. Enjoy this exciting route, even better if you climbed Standard East Face to get there.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 12, 2004

    Having climbed in every western state, I still think is the freakiest 5.7 ever. You know it's only 5.7 but you'll feel like you did something much bigger and harder.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Oct 26, 2005

    In recent years I've done [Saturday's] Folly several times thinking it was the better of the the sister routes, but last weekend I led Friday's Folly and thought it was pretty wild. The starting moves are a littly dicy, depending on whether or not you trust the cam in the pin scar. Then it's really exposed stepping around the corner. There are some strange and awkward moves on the face as you follow the leaning crack past downward slanting strata. So now I don't know which of the two routes I like better. Current favorite is Friday's Folly, because it's less [familiar]. Beware of doing it on the weekend. About 5 East Face parties rappeled down past us and our friends Chuck and John who climbed Friday's Folly after us.
    By Tim Fleming
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 4, 2006
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Excellent route - one of the best 5.7s in the Boulder/Eldo area.
    By jhump
    Sep 29, 2008
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I did this one on lead for first time Sunday 9/28/08- and did not have a guidebook or any beta on the "official" route.

    After turning the initial corner to the right and gaining the better protected face and cracks above, does the route then zag back left through a hand traverse on brown/red strata? I went this way. The hand traverse was nice and airy and led to a stance below a thin finger crack (I think the top of Saturday's Folly?). Ten feet of finger crack takes you to the big anchor bolts. Is this the actual route- or was I supposed to go straight up on the right face to reach the anchor bolts? The way I did it was really nice and I would repeat this way- except I would use more long slings down low to account for the rope drag on the leftward traverse.

    One of the best pitches I have done in the Flatirons.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 29, 2008

    jhump, sounds like you started on Friday's and finished with Saturday's, this variation should be called "Sunday's Folly"? I don't understand why you traversed left. Friday's follows a continuous crack around the corner where it becomes 2-8" wide and zig-zags up and right, the crack goes all the way to the anchors as I recall. The pitch ends a few feet right of the two rappel bolts at the top of Saturday's.
    By Rich F.
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Aug 28, 2010
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I made the same route error as jhump above -- I hand traversed left under the Saturday's Folly roof, then took the thin finger crack 10' up to the bolts. A great climb with tremendous exposure -- but heinous rope drag with that cut back to the left. Not to be satisfied with getting off route just once -- I got off route on the second pitch, too! From the eye bolts, I went straight up the crack (like the Direct Finish) but instead of angling up/right to the South Bowl, I followed another crack on a left traverse and ended up on the west side again climbing up a lichen-covered arete above a small flat ledge with an old piton with a ring through it. I topped out at the tip of the protruding point about 20 feet above and west of the South Bowl anchors. I slung the point and belayed from there, while looking straight down the west face at our packs below. I'm gonna have to take better route instructions with me next time I climb. (But it was still a fun route!)

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Nov 15, 2010

    As of today. the pin a little ways off the ground is loose and moves about 1/4" up and down. Don't count on it. Instead, there is an excellent 0.5/purple Camalot just below it and various good gear around the corner.
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Nov 15, 2013

    The questionable pin is gone....
    By pfwein
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 21, 2014

    Be very careful if doing the second pitch while trying to follow the Haas guidebook; I'm not sure that it shows the "correct" way to go.
    By Rob White
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 23, 2014

    Regarding the accident on December 13, 2014, can anyone who has done the second pitch of this comment on the route they took? In the '81 Rossiter guide Boulder Climbs (see the photo) the 2nd pitch went up the slab to the right under the large chockstone (B2), or directly up the arete (B1). In Rossiter's subsequent '99 guide for the Flatirons, the description says 'The original finish . . . goes up beneath the huge block that hangs 50 feet above the east end of the ledge and reaches the South Bowl via Fat Man's Frenzy (a hole that connects the South Bowl with the top of Slip-Slide Ledge).' This, along with the route diagram, also implies the route goes to the right across the slab under the huge chockstone as that would be the only way to pass through Fat Man's Frenzy on the way to the South Bowl. But then in Haas's 2009 guide the description says 'Traverse right along the ledge and ascend the low-angled dihedral beneath a massive hanging block 50ft up to reach the South Bowl.' And the corresponding photo on page 63, though vague, implies the route goes straight up through the dihedral.

    However, the top of that low-angled dihedral, where Peter fell, is a jumble of overhanging loose blocks almost forming a cave, and (on inspection on rappel) does not look like a viable route finish. There does appear to be a safe way to escape to the left through an off width, if one has a 5 or 6 cam or similar sized gear to protect it, though this appears to be rarely done and looks more difficult than the 5.7 rating. Otherwise there does not appear to be a reasonable protectable (much less anywhere near 5.7) finish by climbing directly up the dihedral.
    Rock Climbing Photo: '81 route diagram.
    '81 route diagram.
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 17, 2015

    Now that the piton is gone, the start of this route is more serious (and I suppose if the pin was lousy, it was always serious). A significant fall is possible if you blow the first (and most difficult) move of the pitch and your pro fails. Because the terrain drops off to the right, a fall here could be much longer than you might think. Be sure to anchor the belayer so that both climbers do not get pulled to the right and down into the gully.
    By John Peterson
    Aug 17, 2015

    George, the pro is fine. You just ask someone rapping down to drop a #2 Camalot just above where the pin used to be and you'll be fine.

    Plus High Over Boulder (second edition) says this is a 5.5, so real climbers should just be soloing this route.

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