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Frictionary 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Rick Leitner, Gary Deal, 1/2/00
Page Views: 6,073
Submitted By: Barry Gereb on Apr 4, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (142)
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Cathy Dececco leading Frictionary on a perfect fal...

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  • Description 

    Locate this climb by looking for the furthest right, bolted line on the south face of surprising crag. Scramble up to the base of the arete and friction your way up a crumbly slab, enjoy a few moves on the arete and continue to the anchors that are above and right.

    Protection 

    6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. This could easily be set up as a toprope as the anchors are far back from the edge. Bring some slings to extend your rope over the edge.


    Photos of Frictionary Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Frictionary.  The easiest route at the Sport Park....
    BETA PHOTO: Frictionary. The easiest route at the Sport Park....
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climber at the crux of Frictionary.
    Climber at the crux of Frictionary.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Top roping on Frictionary.
    Top roping on Frictionary.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Anika leading on Frictionary.
    Anika leading on Frictionary.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steph getting her head for leading back after a bi...
    Steph getting her head for leading back after a bi...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cathy Dececco leading Frictionary while Jeff Crow ...
    Cathy Dececco leading Frictionary while Jeff Crow ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Frictionary, a few moves below the  anchor...
    Leading Frictionary, a few moves below the anchor...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climber near the top of Frictionary.
    Climber near the top of Frictionary.

    Comments on Frictionary Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 1, 2002

    I would strongly recommend this climb for those very new to sport climbing. An easy climb, all of the bolts are easy to clip, and a great view from the top. This was my first sport route, so I will always have fond memories of it.
    By mary
    Jul 11, 2003

    This is probably the easiest sport lead in the Canyon (that I know about anyhow). It is perfect to build confidence and if you want to make it more interesting you can stay on the face instead of going left around the arrete.
    By Rob Migliore
    Jun 25, 2004
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    Good beginning lead, but you have to trust your feet as there aren't as many hand holds on the slab. Would like to get back to sport park for some ot the good moderate routes.
    By Ken Cangi
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Aug 21, 2007
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    My girlfriend and I decided to try this place out today. We did about a half dozen of the moderates, up to mid 5.10, and thought this was the best route of all of them. The route follows an obvious, uncontrived path, and it is bolted intelligently. The moves are also very fun.
    By Paul Donald Andrews
    From: Nederland, Co.
    Jun 25, 2010
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Really fun route, for what it is. Stay on the arete for the best line. People sometimes put down the climbing here, but I really like the rock quality.
    By Sterling
    From: Denver, Co.
    May 24, 2011

    Frictionary was my second climb ever. I really dug that jazz. It was a great start, then half way up it becomes smear city, but all around good. I'll be returning.
    Sterling-
    By Scott McMahon
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 26, 2013

    I agree with Paul. (BETA) The arete has steeper more committing moves, but if you go right, you end up in the blank friction zone. Felt like a pretty solid 5.7 even as short as it is.
    By Larry Shaw 1
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 21, 2017

    Fun warm-up, the arete seemed easier than further right.

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