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Kernville Rock (a.k.a. Kern Slabs)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Branscum-Martin Route S 
Chouinard Special T,S 
Claustrophobia Crack T 
Claustrophobia Direct Start T,TR 
Cornflakes T,TR 
Dirty Dishes S 
Fine Line S 
Friction Slab T 
Initiation Crack T 
Just for Kicks S 
Lieback, The T 
Sight Unseen S 
Top Out T 

Friction Slab 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,124
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Oct 16, 2009

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Awesome face climbing on clean, white granite. Reasonably protected.

Start at the same place as the Lieback and traverse right onto the face. Climb this face until reaching the "bathtub ledge" which marks the top of the Lieback's first pitch. Continue in a hand-sized crack up and right--40 feet higher, and about 25 feet to the right, is a two bolt anchor. Rappel from here or follow the last pitch of Claustrophobia Crack to the top.

If rappelling with one rope, there is an intermediate rappel station on the face below (it will take you two raps to get down).


Climbs the clean face just a few feet right of the Lieback (between the Lieback and Claustrophobia Crack).


Bolts, a few pieces of gear from tiny to 2-inches.

Sadly, when the route was re-equipped with modern lead bolts, the original Leeper hangers were placed on the new five-piece Rawls.

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