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Friction Fix 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Kelly Baldwin
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 652
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 5, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Seasonal Raptor Closures January 1- July 31st MORE INFO >>>


Starts on the left side of the cliff near a small cave-like hole. Climb up just right of the cave to the first bolt, traverse out right (yellow alien) to the second bolt. Make hard slab moves reaching a ledge (yellow alien) Make a couple of steep moves past the last bolt, reaching a right-leaning corner. Climb the corner (gear) to a two-bolt anchor anchor. Great route!


Eight quickdraws and small to medium gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor.

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By Kelly Baldwin
Jun 29, 2004

Test yourself and go straight up the slab after the second bolt, or make it a little easier and move right just a bit. Great climb. -kb.
By Peggy E.
From: Aurora, CO
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

There is no anchor at the top of this route anymore. There are two bolts, but the bolt hangers are missing. However an anchor can be built once you get up over the top. It's long between bolts 1 and 2, but you can try to get a little bit of pro in on the seam to the right if you have small gear. Otherwise, it's a ground fall into thorn bushes if you don't make the second clip.
By nate post
From: Silverthorne
May 20, 2013

I enjoyed this climb, but it would be a bad landing into the thorn bushes if you fall before the second bolt. There are still no anchors on this climb, I wish I had known before I climbed it. I rapped off the tree to the left clean my draws.

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