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Crystal Wall Area
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Arch Traverse S 
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More Affliction T 
Red Dawn S 

Friction Affliction 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 450'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: FA First pitch 1980 Bob Branscomb, Kim Treadaway, M. Treadaway
Page Views: 224
Submitted By: Ney Grant on Jun 24, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Friction Affliction


To the right of the steep-start More Affliction is Friction Affliction, a multi-pitch climb that shares the same belay/rappel chains as More Affliction. The first pitch is all bolts and it uses the two-bolt anchor of Arch Traverse but not as a belay station - just clip one of the bolts and keep going. From the first belay station head straight up the obvious crack/flake system (large pro), then up and over the small roof for a short section of face past one bolt near the big Ice House Roof to the next belay at the rap chains above the corner of the roof. For P3 head up and left past one bolt to the double bolt anchor / rap chains. P3 climbing is runout but easy and note the one bolt is lined up between the two belay stations.

Once at the top you can rap straight down in two raps with two 70M ropes or rap back down the climb with shorter ropes in three raps (or walk off).

FA Bob Branscomb allowed the addition of much needed bolt number one, which is still pretty high up in order to protect a groundfall once near the original bolt one.

Historical note: This climb was rebolted in 2015 but was a bit of a mess. It had 1/4" bolts but was rebolted in the 90's without removing the old bolts. So it was double bolted with up to four bolts at belay stations. Even the 90's bolts were rusted so the entire route was bolted with stainless steel bolts and hardware.


Between the steep-start More Affliction and Ice House Roof, which has a bolt closer to the ground. The first bolt on this route is fairly high up. The second bolt is to the left of the first one.

On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 7.


P1: All bolts. P2: medium/large gear. P3: All bolts.

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By Matt D
From: Jay, NY
Jun 22, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Rapping the route with 60m double ropes is straight forward - down the way you came up.

Not sure why people would recommend the rap route that is straight down from the top anchor and requires double 70m ropes. Who carries double 70s, anyway?

Fun route.

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