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Orange Crush
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Fresh Squeezed S 
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Fresh Squeezed 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Paula King 5/2001
Page Views: 685
Submitted By: Eric Leclerc on Jun 2, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The route just right of Tropicana

Description 

This route is for you if you like boulder problems with a huge rest in between.
You can start the climb by clipping the first draw of Tropicana and then fork right to get below the roof where the business starts. Once you clip the bolt in the roof, you should unclip the first one to reduce drag. The exit of the roof involves long powerful moves with a super interesting boulder sequence. Once you figure it out, it feels quite easy. Then use good holds to get to the forever rest if needed. The second roof/bulge is more tricky. You need more finger strength than the problem below. One hard dead point to a small hold and if you can pull this one move, it's just a little hike to the anchor. The route stays dry most of the time.
The only down side to this route is its sharpness for the rope.

Location 

You never see a line-up to climb this route. It's between the routes on the right that are always wet and the routes on the left that everyone wants to climb (Tropicana, Predator, Vaporizer and Crusher).

Protection 

8 bolts. Use two slings below the first roof and one below the second. Better if cleaned seconding. Don't use your brand new rope like I did.


Photos of Fresh Squeezed Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: First roof of this climb where the moves are great...
BETA PHOTO: First roof of this climb where the moves are great...

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By Ladd
Administrator
Jul 23, 2014

The first 4 bolts of this climb is easily linked into Tropicana, making for an interesting 12a that relies on body position and aim. Very fun.
By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Jun 16, 2015
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

The 2nd crux for this route is very hard for a 5.12. If not for the ledge rest before it, this route would be 5.13. There are a few hold on the lower crux that are like loose teeth.

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