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There and Back Again T 

Fresh Garlic 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Kjell Benson & Lance Gunnerson, March 1989
Page Views: 449
Submitted By: SL8ON on Mar 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Brian Hench on Fresh Garlic

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Description 

Fun moves up and out of a dihedral to a crack above.

Location 

First crack right of There and Back Again.
Might want extra sling material for the rap.

Protection 

Pro to 3".


Photos of Fresh Garlic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: No hands rest.
No hands rest.
Rock Climbing Photo: About to pull the roof.
About to pull the roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: West face of Cave Rock with Fresh Garlic and Seed ...
BETA PHOTO: West face of Cave Rock with Fresh Garlic and Seed ...

Comments on Fresh Garlic Add Comment
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By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Apr 20, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Be careful at the start. Some of the potential cam placements are either behind dubious flakes or in sandy flares. There is a hidden solid placement in the back to protect the big move over the roof (1.25 Friend).

Bring at least 10 feet worth of sling material.
By Daniel Evans
From: N Scottsdale, AZ
Jan 9, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I was actually pleasantly surprised with how good this route was. It takes great gear overall and the bad rock can be easily avoided. The dihedral leading up to the "dish" below the roof is solid and protects well enough, but you may find the gear opportunities before the final roof pull slightly less inspiring. However, the sequence felt like a 5.8 jug haul and was not the crux of the route--so don't let that deter you from jumping on this one. After the roof, the rest of the route takes great gear on positive stances with one intermittent crux section past a slight bulge on positive face holds.

The route hasn't received much traffic so there are a few holds below the roof that are a bit gritty/sandy but the quality of the rock above it is solid. Once this cleans up a bit, I think it will easily be a three star route. This route has stemming, a no-hands rest (sit in the dish!), jug-hauling, hand jams, and a thoughtful crux. Everyone in our group really enjoyed the route and agreed that it deserved 2+ stars.

Gear: .5" - 4" & standard set of nuts
Anchor: 2" - 4" (I used two #3's and a #2 for a top-rope anchor; bring cord/long slings to extend it if you are top-roping)
Descent: 1.) Rap off the slung boulder down a short chimney on the opposite side of the formation; 2.) then with your back facing the rap route, walk out to your left.

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