|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 35'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Kjell Benson & Lance Gunnerson, March 1989|
|Submitted By:||SL8ON on Mar 6, 2007|
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|Comments on Fresh Garlic||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
Apr 20, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Be careful at the start. Some of the potential cam placements are either behind dubious flakes or in sandy flares. There is a hidden solid placement in the back to protect the big move over the roof (1.25 Friend).
Bring at least 10 feet worth of sling material.
By Daniel Evans
From: N Scottsdale, AZ
Jan 9, 2017
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I was actually pleasantly surprised with how good this route was. It takes great gear overall and the bad rock can be easily avoided. The dihedral leading up to the "dish" below the roof is solid and protects well enough, but you may find the gear opportunities before the final roof pull slightly less inspiring. However, the sequence felt like a 5.8 jug haul and was not the crux of the route--so don't let that deter you from jumping on this one. After the roof, the rest of the route takes great gear on positive stances with one intermittent crux section past a slight bulge on positive face holds.
The route hasn't received much traffic so there are a few holds below the roof that are a bit gritty/sandy but the quality of the rock above it is solid. Once this cleans up a bit, I think it will easily be a three star route. This route has stemming, a no-hands rest (sit in the dish!), jug-hauling, hand jams, and a thoughtful crux. Everyone in our group really enjoyed the route and agreed that it deserved 2+ stars.
Gear: .5" - 4" & standard set of nuts
Anchor: 2" - 4" (I used two #3's and a #2 for a top-rope anchor; bring cord/long slings to extend it if you are top-roping)
Descent: 1.) Rap off the slung boulder down a short chimney on the opposite side of the formation; 2.) then with your back facing the rap route, walk out to your left.