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Flathead Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Fresh Aire T 
My Mom's Burnt Cat Memorial  T 
My Moms Muscle Shirt T 
Rain Dance T 
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Fresh Aire 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 11 pitches, 1000', Grade V
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a A2 [details]
FA: Marvin McDonald, Tobin Kelly, Kurt Kleiner
Page Views: 1,157
Submitted By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Jul 22, 2013

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Fran Bagenal, pitch 7 (I think it's pitch 7?)

Description 

Takes the center of the south face of Flathead Spire. Start as for Muscle Shirt, follow this for the first two pitches and its P3 traverse left, and the excellent P4 finger crack. Muscle Shirt goes up from here. Instead, keep going left (P5, 5.6) to a belay under a shallow corner ascending a steep, blank face. Pitch 6 goes up this to a bolt ladder (interspersed with hard-to-see bathook holes) going up and right to a pendy into a left-facing corner system. Go up this a ways to a belay. Pitches 7, 8 and 9 lead first to a big ledge system with blocks and trees and then a blocky ramp (A1, 5.9) above. Angle up and right up the ramp to a left-facing A2 dihedral, up this to a 5.7 traverse back left to the Bomb Shelter bivy. Above this is another left-facing dihedral system, A2 or so, which gains another ledge. Last pitch (11) is supposedly some kind of aid crux but upon reaching the rounded, flared copperheading corner it seemed easier to step right onto the arete and freed climb this, at about 5.9 R, past the aid.

Hard to recall much, we did second ascent, back in 1987; but the old Rick Torre guidebook fleshes out a few more details. The aid we did felt straightforward, even by the old-wave rating standards.

Do recall having a blast. A big-wall climb, with no crowds, no people; a fantastic, remote location.

Location 

Blodgett Canyon, north side. Beyond Nez Perce and Shoshone. Long hike in. Descent: from summit, head north then east and get funneled into a vague gully system. Multiple raps from trees as needed.

Protection 

Back in 1987 we brought a full set of pitons. Hooks, including bathooks. Cams, nuts. Has this gone clean yet?


Photos of Fresh Aire Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on the pitch 4 finger crack. From 1987, second ...
Me on the pitch 4 finger crack. From 1987, second ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down the final pitch. Way up in the air!
Looking down the final pitch. Way up in the air!
Rock Climbing Photo: Fran Bagenal, pitch 10.
Fran Bagenal, pitch 10.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fran Bagenal preparing to lower out from the pendu...
Fran Bagenal preparing to lower out from the pendu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back across the 5.6 pitch 5 traverse. My M...
Looking back across the 5.6 pitch 5 traverse. My M...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2. Fran Bagenal
Pitch 2. Fran Bagenal

Comments on Fresh Aire Add Comment
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By Nate K
From: Richmond, VT
Sep 17, 2014

how can i get more information on this route? is it in any guidebooks that are still in print?