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The Black Rocks
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Freriks Is A Daddy 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: David Evans, Margy Floyd
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: David Evans on Jan 1, 2002

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BETA PHOTO: The Black Rocks

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Description 

Although the rock at the bottom is not very good it gets better and better. Tie off the thread and start liebacking and side-pulling on up. This route is a lot like "Wired", technical with thin pro, but longer.

Protection 

This route needs only a selection of wired stoppers, RP's and small cams (up to 2 ") as well as a sling to tie off the thread at the start. Tie off boulders on top for the belay anchor.


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By David Evans
Mar 6, 2003

In the picture of the cliff you can see Chris Miller (following) and Nathan Fitzhugh on on the right side of the cliff. This was either a First Ascent or possibly the line of "Ranking Carl" (a rare and esoteric 5.8). Picture taken on 3/2/03.
By M. Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 18, 2003

I believe this is the same route listed in the '92 Vogel guide as Unnamed 5.10c (#2241).
By Isaac T.
From: Yokosuka, Japan
Jan 4, 2009

I don't think this is Unnamed 10c as the guide book describes the route "on the lefthand cliff, near the right side." It also mentions a bolt, a seam, and a hand traverse all of which are non-existant on this route. When I did it (1-3-09) I graded the route 5.7+ (not 10c not even close) my money is on Ranking Carl or Miller and Fitzhugh getting a FA.

It was a bit of a rope stretcher about 28 meters or so with fun climbing on bomber rock. You pull 2 bulges on big chicken heads and a bit of stemming down lower (by the tree/shrub)

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