|Original:||YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]|
|FA:||Matt Spohn Aug. 2011 (Bolted by Ryan Palo 2009)|
|Submitted By:||peachy spohn on Aug 24, 2011|
|Comments on French's Doughnut||Add Comment|
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Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
This link-up is a worthwhile endeavor if you've ticked the rest of the wall. It's a bit of a hassle to prep/hang the draws, but you'll appreciate having them hanging, as the route is pumpy enough.
With strategic sling length, rope drag wasn't as issue. The main obstacle was the spookiness of pulling the crux (BSD to Road Rage) while sideways out from the previous draw (Jackie Chan). There was a bit of rope out at that point, and you're not that high off the ground. A fall here demands an attentive belay, but is reasonably safe as long as the catch is not too soft.
Make sure you have the High Voltage finish wired- If you can make it to the Road Face rest the send should be in the bag!