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French's Dome

Routes Sorted
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Alpha Centauri S 
BSD S 
China Man S 
China Side S 
Crankenstein S 
Dark Man S 
Dark Side (AKA The Siege), The S 
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak) S 
Do it Again S 
French's Doughnut S 
Giant's Direct S 
Giant's Staircase S 
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage S 
Jackie Chan S 
Low Voltage S 
Open Project S 
Oz S 
Philanthropy S 
Psoriasis S 
Pump-O-Rama S 
Road Face S 
Road Head S 
Road Kill S 
Road Rage S 
Static Cling S 
Straw Man S 
Tin Tangle S 
Yellow Brick Road T 

French's Dome Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 45.39719, -121.85985 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 52,072
Administrators: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006  with updates from Micah Klesick
Forecast:
Tonight

55°
Saturday

81° | 57°
Sunday

78° | 57°
Monday

82° | 57°
Tuesday

76° | 53°
Wednesday

72° | 52°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Cleaning the anchor on Alpha Centauri.

Description 

French’s Dome is a lone andesite crag located on the flanks of Mt. Hood near the town of Zig Zag, Oregon. Routes range in height from 80ft. to 160ft., and most are well-bolted. The setting is quiet and tranquil, and invokes a feeling of solitude in the old-growth forest. Spectacular views of Mt. Hood abound, and crowds are few.

The climbing is sporty, crimpy, and pumpy. Most of the routes feature chains and steel biners on the anchors, however, a couple don't have biners, so don't always plan on them being there.

Due to heavy snowfall this area is strictly a Summer and early Fall crag. The best hours are in the afternoon when the majority of the climbs are in the shade.

Getting There 

To get to French’s Dome take Highway 26 from Portland towards Mt. Hood. In the town of Zig Zag take a left onto Lolo Pass Rd and continue for approximately 6 miles. The dome is not clearly visible from the road, but there is an obvious dirt pullout for parking on the right with a sign. Take the small trail downhill from the parking area to the dome; the majority of the climbs are on the left side of the dome as you're walking down the hill.
a NW Forest Pass is required to park here. You can get one from the ZigZag Ranger station if you don't have one.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.6 miles from here

28 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',5],['5.12',10],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in French's Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for French's Dome:
Giant's Staircase   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 80'   
Do it Again   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 70'   
Oz   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Straw Man   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Tin Tangle   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 70'   
Alpha Centauri   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Static Cling   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 160'   
Dirty Deeds (aka Silver Streak)   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 60'   
China Man   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Crankenstein   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 70'   
Jackie Chan   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Road Rage   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 65'   
Road Face   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 55'   
Pump-O-Rama   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Dark Side (AKA The Siege)   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 65'   
High Voltage, AKA 'Rhoid Rage   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
BSD   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 65'   
Philanthropy   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Dark Man   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 65'   
Psoriasis   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in French's Dome

Featured Route For French's Dome
Rock Climbing Photo: Psoriasis

Psoriasis 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  Oregon : Mt. Hood : French's Dome
A true power-endurance route, Psoriasis lacks the huge "thank god" jugs that appear on other French's Dome routes. After clipping the third bolt, the business begins and you'll have to get your shakes/rests wherever you can find them! While the crux is between the fourth and fifth bolts, the route remains pumpy to the anchor.This route has been extensively cleaned, but the friable nature of the rock means that holds occasionally crumble slightly. Also, any rock to either side of the route sho...[more]   Browse More Classics in Oregon

Photos of French's Dome Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: giants staircase starts here and goes left.  there...
giants staircase starts here and goes left. there...
Rock Climbing Photo: we belayed the start of the 3rd pitch of giant's s...
we belayed the start of the 3rd pitch of giant's s...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of the dome
View from the top of the dome
Rock Climbing Photo: The top 15 ft. of rock is broken, covered in moss,...
BETA PHOTO: The top 15 ft. of rock is broken, covered in moss,...
Rock Climbing Photo: china man
china man

Comments on French's Dome Add Comment
Show which comments
By marmotsg
May 30, 2017
CONDITION REPORT 
Has anyone been up to the Dome this year? Is Lolo Pass road open to the parking lot yet? Thanks!
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
May 30, 2017
CONDITION REPORT 
French's Dome is completely accessible as of now.
By Kathleen Walker
Jan 30, 2006
Access to French's Dome is not free and unregulated. The trailhead is a Northwest Forest Pass (NWFP)site. Users may purchase a $5 daily pass or a $30 annual pass. 80% of the Northwest Forest Pass revenues go directly back to the ground - maintaining trails and sites like this. NWFP funds were used in 2005 on French's Dome to get engineered drawings and a contract package developed to construct climbing platforms. These climbing platforms will replace the eroded hillsides and user created stop gap measures that are currently on site. The total cost of this project (scheduled to start in Spring of 2006)is over $50,000 so please support the NWFP program as it paid for this work. Your fees will also pay for a porta-potty at the site to reduce the white flowers and worse in the woods around the crag. Volunteers that work on trails on the Mt. Hood Forest receive annual Northwest Forest Passes as recognition awards for 2 days of work. See Forest website for more info. Frenches Dome can be busy when local mountain snow-board and ski camp groups are using it on summer afternoons.
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jul 10, 2007
French's just had a ton of work done on the retaining walls and trails. They've really been beefed up, and the whole effort looks awesome. Thanks to anyone out there who put in some hard hours out there!
By jeb013
From: Portland
Aug 19, 2013
The guide book shows 23 routes and I believe a few more have gone in since it was published.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jun 30, 2017
This crag is super fun, but the hardware seems pretty janky. I only did a handful 5.11 and 12-, but the theme of the day was rusty bolts that were varying degrees of uninspiring. Maybe I just don't spend enough time climbing in wet climates, but it seems like we can do better...
By dmPete
Jul 3, 2017
Max, I agree. The few routes I climbed had some pretty rusty hardware on them.

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