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John Doe Wall
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Frenching Shiela 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Knarzer, Scott Duemler
New Route: Yes
Season: Shaded most of day
Page Views: 255
Submitted By: bio on Jun 26, 2013

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Start slightly right from sandy bottom then traverse left on rail to start of crack. Clip first bolt then grit your teeth and move through the technical crux, very thin past 2nd bolt then into crack with nice gear. Crack is hands and fingers, sometimes shallow, sometimes flaring. Some really hard crack toward top then over mini roof to great edges and 2 bolt anchor.


In the same alcove as Dirty mcnasty's, right side of john doe wall as you follow the base right and down/around a bit.


2 bolts, nuts, triples from tiny stuff to .75BD, 00 and 0 metolious great, even ball nuts useful, singles from 1 to 3BD, a #4 is useful for start of crack. Great to have your small stuff in diff cam types for overlap in range.

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By bio
From: mesa, az
Jun 26, 2013

Mike is still working on the FFA for this one.

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