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Pancake House
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French Toast 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Marty Karabin & Harvey Delos Reyes, May 1991
Page Views: 825
Submitted By: Alex Hardt on Feb 19, 2009

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The start of this climb is recognizable by two large pockets in the face. Start at the center inside the Pancake House under the roof and climb up to the 1st bolt and the 1st large pocket. Veer right toward the 2nd bolt and the 2nd large pocket and then continue straight up and outside to a thin face. Climb the thin face past 2 bolts to a ledge and an anchor with 2 chains. The Queen Creek Guide lists this climb as a 5.9 and the newer fold-out topo lists it as a 5.8 (probably due to retro-bolting eliminating the need to protect the lower face with cams.) However, I thought the face climb past the last 2 bolts was still pretty stiff for a 5.8.


Center face inside the Pancake House.


6 bolts to anchor chains.

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By Nick VZ
Dec 15, 2013

Great climb, but you better not fall before clipping the 1st bolt

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