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The Milepost
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Chocolate Snake T 
French Flies T 
Gettysburger, The T 
Scrambled Legs T 

French Flies 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Swain & Patty Furbush 10/89
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: "French Flies". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This climb faces north on the Milepost and gets some shade, at least in winter days. It offers good gear and fun moves, albeit a pain to build an anchor up top and get down from.

Go to the north face of the Milepost (right side, if viewing from the road) and scramble up a few rocks to find 2 easy crack systems on the back of this rock. The left-most of these is French Flies (5.7) & the right is Chocolate Snake (5.6).

Belay up top in a notch (body for a chock/anchor) or scramble over the cliff to the south side and scramble down to the bolt anchors above The Gettysburger and belay. Rap from the same anchors, or down-climb the north face. Retreat is a pain.

Protection 

A few nuts and cams


Photos of French Flies Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "French Flies" follows the crack to the ...
BETA PHOTO: "French Flies" follows the crack to the ...

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By DaveGustafson
From: Palm Desert, CA
Feb 20, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good route. fun moves and protects well. Can knock out two routes quickly with the 5.6 next to it. I'd suggest calling dibs on leading this one first and let your partner climb the "easier" (sarcasm) 5.6. Rap anchors seemed a bit out of the way to consider using as a belay, take your time and be careful down climbing to them.
By Kelly Corbin
Dec 10, 2014

There is a perfect crack for an anchor in the notch. It takes .75 to 4. No need to do a body anchor. Not sure of a north face down climb either, could possibly down climb the south face but it is fairly easy to get to the rap station on the east face.

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