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The Wart
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Banana Hammock T,TR 
Compound W T 
Compound W variation T,TR 
Freight Night T 
Mean Mug T,TR 
Meyah T 
Smiley Kylee T,TR 

Freight Night 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Nathan Redon, Josh Lowy
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 634
Submitted By: Nate Redon on Sep 24, 2016

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The crux of Freight Night (5.8+).

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Freight Night starts on Mean Mug (or Banana Hammock for full value) and cuts right where you can traverse on a slabby ramp. Follow the ramp using a broken crack system up to a small roof (crux) and continue up easier terrain to a bolted anchor. You can easily reach the top of the Wart from here.

A direct start up the arete has been done on TR. Pretty fun.


Starts as for Mean Mug (large chimney at the base of the gulley) or as for Banana Hammock for full value. See picture.


SR from small nuts to .75". If you're pushing yourself at the grade, a good selection of small nuts / cams will sew it up. Bring bigger stuff if starting on Banana Hammock.

Photos of Freight Night Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Yellow - Banana Hammock ;  Red - Mean Mug ;  Blue ...
Yellow - Banana Hammock ; Red - Mean Mug ; Blue ...

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By Josh Lowy
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 24, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Not sustained, but keeps you on your toes. Most of the route is probably 5.7ish slab but the crux [with beta ;)] is roughly 5.9. Keep your eyes peeled because there are plenty of easily overlooked placements. Summiting the Wart from the anchor is easy but I would remain tied in/on belay to do so. Hip/tree/further anchor belay your partner up after. Fun route; atypical of other ~5.9 climbs at Index that I've done (more face-climbing focused).
By Serge Smirnov
Nov 9, 2016

Pushing 10a (height-depdendent) at the crux (near the end). Protection there (nuts / small cams) is probably ok, but one would fall some distance.
By Nate Redon
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 14, 2016

Thanks for the input Serge, I graded it based on other routes in the area but maybe I underestimated the crux. In the interest of not sandbagging anyone (don't read ahead if you care about onsights or like a challenge) the crux will definitely feel hard if you don't find a certain hold, keep your eyes peeled out right.

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