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Freidel-Madsen Route T 

Freidel-Madsen Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Robbie Friedel -- Michael Madsen--Ground Up?
Page Views: 15
Submitted By: Mike Housiaux on Sep 10, 2014

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the formation and line

Description 

Starts on the side down in Sunday Gulch this route starts right off the Sunday Gulch trail and is easy to find. This route was done ground up and didn't look like it had been climbed. One never knows in the Needles though! Robbie and I had once attempted this line in 2012.

(P1)--Look for the crack for the start place some gear and move up and left of the bulge plugging gear in ( long Runner Needed) move up the huge flack/ crack that splits the face that faces Sunday Gulch. Once at the top of the flake / crack build in anchor in a good spot cams (1-4) come in handy for the size of cracks.

(P2) Move up and pull throw the bulges up top. Yet again it helps to have doubles the first piece will be a number 3 camalot and from there its pretty run out only based on the fact that your pulling small bulges the rest of the way and it is EXPOSED! great pitch none the less. Summit this beauty. Rap off backside.

Location 

East Face?

Protection 

Standard Rack. Doubles of 1-4 camalots and some long runners.


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