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Freezy Nuts 

Freezy Nuts 

WI3

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 2400'
Original: WI3 Mod. Snow [details]
FA: May 3, 1996 Manu Guy and Manu Pellissier
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on May 16, 2017

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The original topo.

Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

This route is becoming popular, and for good reason. It's got an easy approach and mellow but aesthetic climbing. It's a good warm-up for Ham And Eggs. As a couloir, it's a funnel for any debris from overhead. Climbers should consider overnight lows, daytime highs, and timing when planning an ascent.


Boot up the debris cone and into the narrowing chute. Around 5700' the couloir narrows considerably and steepens slightly. Continue through this section over several steep steps. Though mostly snow and ice, some easy mixed climbing could be encountered in the narrow section of the route depending on conditions.

Above the narrow section the couloir widens. Just before the col the snow steepens, expect a bit of a cornice here.

It seems like most parties stop at the col between London and Werewolf Towers. The summit of Werewolf tower is several pitches of mostly-rock climbing above the col.

Location 

This is the slot between London and Werewolf Towers. The narrow section is skinny and deep enough that a view into it is not really available up-gorge. Descend the route with a combination of downclimbing and rappelling. Rap stations are set up for two 60m ropes.

Protection 

Stoppers, cams from .3 - 1 BD. Ice screws, maybe a picket. Plan on leaving cord (and maybe other gear) to beef up rap stations.

If continuing to the summit more rock gear (and maybe even rock shoes) would be useful.


Photos of Freezy Nuts Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mik getting ready to pull over the cornice and ont...
Mik getting ready to pull over the cornice and ont...
Rock Climbing Photo: Above the col, on the way to the top of the ear. D...
Above the col, on the way to the top of the ear. D...
Rock Climbing Photo: Freezy Nuts Couloir, tucked back there in the shad...
Freezy Nuts Couloir, tucked back there in the shad...

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