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Sponge Problem, The 

Freeloader Friday 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Owen Summerscales
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 240
Submitted By: Owen Summerscales on Mar 18, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Bouldery route on excellent water-polished rock, located on the block just left of Pumping Huecos.
Start in the crack, pull onto a slab. A very enjoyable compression sequence through the bulge at, and just after, bolt 3 comprises the crux. Clip the 4th bolt, and top out to the picnic ledge. This is followed by 2 more bolts worth of easier climbing on huecos to the Pumping Huecos anchor. Can top-rope/hang draws after climbing the latter route — in fact, this climb has been top-roped in this manner for many years.
Gets afternoon shade.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (shared with Pumping Huecos)


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By Josh Smith
Apr 23, 2017

Very fun movement and a reasonably sustained crux. If Pumpinig Huecos is 3.5 stars, this one deserves 3.

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