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Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
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Freedonia 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: Bradley White
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, fall
Page Views: 96
Submitted By: bradley white on Apr 16, 2010

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The many ways to do Freedonia

Description 

Not an easy place to get to the base of this climb. The line is the furthest west I've tried. It also seems to be at the end of the line for any climbs in this area. It is the best section so far. Solid, clean for the most part sticky for the shoes rock. Climb the line of least resistance of your own choosing (run out). Go direct or traverse left on top of block's outside edge to ramp with a few crack options that go right up this steepest section also. Lots of variations again to section above all these crack starts. Most have been done now and go at (5.5-7). Higher up there is broken glass on the ledges. Hasn't been a problem so far. People do throw bottles off of the summit. Bottles go towards this area.

Location 

Stay on the same ridge that brought you there until at a large bulge of rock split at it's base. Climb up it and afterward traverse far to the right side of the bulge by dirt and trees to a 4th class ramp that is taken west until it ends on a narrow tree slope. Across this narrow slope is a spot to get ready for the climb. There is a direct approach up this tree slope, further west, past this 4th class section up.

Protection 

regular light rack. some big slings.


Photos of Freedonia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit view east
Summit view east
Rock Climbing Photo: The start is an easy run out.
The start is an easy run out.
Rock Climbing Photo: East Side Summit Ledge. I went up the bulge above ...
East Side Summit Ledge. I went up the bulge above ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit Ledges east. This how I finished up via the...
Summit Ledges east. This how I finished up via the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Broken glass on a ledge.
Broken glass on a ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit Ledges west.
Summit Ledges west.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is the western part of the upper section of t...
This is the western part of the upper section of t...
Rock Climbing Photo: This is far west of the direct climb I chose. This...
This is far west of the direct climb I chose. This...
Rock Climbing Photo: top block wasn't climbed instead moved left around...
top block wasn't climbed instead moved left around...
Rock Climbing Photo: 4th class start to 'Freedonia' higher up and to th...
4th class start to 'Freedonia' higher up and to th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Freedonia is the wall on the right side from the c...
BETA PHOTO: Freedonia is the wall on the right side from the c...

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