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Freedom Flight 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 420'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Geoff Smith, Dave Hough Sept. '76
Page Views: 532
Submitted By: rocknice2 on May 25, 2015

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  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Peregrine closures and approach trail issues MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The first 5.10 at Poke-O and a classic climb. Combining a long technical traverse with a discontinuous vertical crack.

    Start by climbing The Snake(5.4). Walk to the far right of the ledge (careful some easy exposed moves) to a bolted anchor.

    P1: 5.10b G 130'
    A long technical traverse right. Follow the dike past a poison ivy bush to a first set of anchors [Deuteronomy 5.11b]. Keep going right until you see two bolts rising up and right to the upper dike [crux]. Once at the good holds of the upper dike move right to a somewhat thrilling section [small gear]. Pass another bolt before finally reaching the bolted rap anchor. The line of bolts above are for [No Higher Authority 5.11d G 110'].
    Rappel from here with doubles to the ground or with a single rope to the top anchors of The Howling (climbers left).

    P2: 5.10a PG (5.7 X) 150'
    Head out right to a left side of a large, detached and flexing flake. Climb up (5.7 X) to the top to find an old rusted 1/4" bolt. (There is gear everywhere but the flake is highly suspect. Especially in the middle.) Gain a shallow discontinuous crack and follow it to the top, where you'll find bolted rap anchors.
    Most parties rap from here. A single 70m rope gets you to the P1 anchors... Just barely. Tie knots!!!

    P3: 5.6 R 140'
    Continue up the crack, then left along a slab to the final exit corner.

    Walk off left to descent gully.


    Far right side of the Snake ledge.


    Single rack up to #3 Camalot. A medium size RP & C3 are useful for last section of the traverse.

    Comments on Freedom Flight Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jim Lawyer
    Aug 5, 2010

    Freedom Flight -- there's a large crop of poison ivy about halfway across the traverse. There are no cracks above or below the patch, so it's impossible to keep the ropes out of it. Good luck!
    By rocknice2
    From: Montreal, Quebec
    May 25, 2015

    I put the ratings that are found in the ADK Rock guidebook but mine tend to differ slightly.
    The traverse felt harder than 10b at the crux, possibly because both my partner and I took the wrong sequence of holds. Still, we both chose that same particular line. The gear was good mostly but a few sections felt like there was a chance of a good long pendulum. Especially before the very last bolt, where a fall would land you on some small gear. 5.10 c/d PG-13.
    The second pitch had great gear aside from the flake 5.10a G (5.7 X)
    By Jim Lawyer
    May 26, 2015

    I think this is one of Poke-O's great lines. The difficult bits are quite well-protected, but there's definitely some spice in the easier sections.
    By Derek Doucet
    May 27, 2015

    Totally agree, Jim. What a great route. I just hope that poison ivy bush on the traverse isn't still there. It looked might healthy last time I climbed that pitch (a few years ago now), and it was essentially impossible to keep the rope out of it...
    By rocknice2
    From: Montreal, Quebec
    May 27, 2015

    It's still there. I'm highly allergic but somehow managed not to get it. Has anyone ever gone up there with a shovel and cleaned the ledge?
    By Jim Lawyer
    May 28, 2015

    ...or some RoundUp?
    By John Albright
    Aug 22, 2016

    A good link-up is the Piller for P1, then from the top of the piller climb Deuteronomy into the traverse of Freedom Flight. You get the some hard face climbing on Deuteronomy and then still get the crux of the traverse on Freedom Flights P2.

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