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Freedom Fighter 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson & Kirk Miller on June 18, 2006
Season: May into October
Page Views: 118
Submitted By: Mark Rolofson on Jun 27, 2017

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Description 

Scramble up to a ledge below a roof. Clip the 1st bolt in the roof. Move right & up on big holds over the lip before moving slightly left. Clip the 2nd bolt & make a strenuous move off side pulls or an undercling (.11c/d) to reach jugs above. Continue with ease to a stance & 4th bolt. At the 5th bolt, the difficulties begin again. Ascend a vertical face via small edges with the crux at the 7th bolt (.11d/.12a) to reach a shelf. Awkward moves gain the shelf & a good rest standing on it. From the left side of the shelf & the 9th bolt, move left & up to a stance left of the 10th bolt. Move right & up to a small roof & the last bolt over the lip. Strenuous moves pull the roof on good holds. Continue up moderate moves to the anchor.

I originally rated this climb 5.11d/12a. If it is well-chalked, it may feel like 5.11d. I recently revisited this climb to find no chalk on the holds. I wasn't sure where the small holds on the vertical face were at first. Without chalk on the holds or beta, this climb feels like 5.12a.

Location 

Begin 15 feet left of Pierced Lip Lock.

Protection 

11 bolts / 2 rings.


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By Geoff U
From: Centennial, CO
Jul 17, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Kinda frustrating route, b/c it's 3 stars for the 1st two thirds - great movement, but then the last three bolts are awful (like bomb quality). Chossy rock covered in lichen - no fun at all. I was able to get through the lower part - the supposed crux - but struggled in the dirtiness, making it undesirable to project.

Next time, I will do the bottom two thirds and then cut right after the 8th bolt (past the crux already) and link to the top of Pierced Lip Lock. That would be a 3-star climb.
By Mark Rolofson
Aug 10, 2017

I would have to say, read the route description again & more carefully. "From the left side of the shelf & the 9th bolt, move left & up to a stance left of the 10th bolt. Move right & up to a small roof & the last bolt over the lip. Strenuous moves pull the roof on good holds." There is a lichen streak straight up above the 9th bolt, but I move left past it. Avoiding the final roof to the left may be unpleasant & dirty. I pull over the left side of the roof with the last bolt in front of me (at my face & chest).

Feel free to visit the route with a wire brush & clean it to your satisfaction. The remaining lichen is not a issue for me personally, since I don't climb up the lichen streak.

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