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Freedom Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 40
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Dec 5, 2011

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Xiao Man slumming up a peasant's route

  • Peregrine Falcon Nesting MORE INFO >>>
  • Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This route starts at the left-most edge of a steep, grassy ledge. There are two ways to approach it. First, from directly below, climb easy blocks and grassy steps, avoiding loose rock and trying not to slip on the grass. Second, climb up Topout to the ledge and belay on gear. If doing this, your belayer will be quite some distance from the start of the crack, and you will need to place a piece between the belay and the start, so be sure to use long runners.

    Send the obvious, undulating crack straight up, making use of features on the face as well as the occasional hand/foot jam. After a series of fun moves, the slab tilts inward. From a small stance, the crack widens to 4" and then dissipates. The last few feet are an easy scramble. Belay at a small ledge below a mini-roof.

    There are two options for the second pitch. To keep it 5.8, move right along this ledge to the corner and climb this chimney-like feature through a section of OW. In spite of the description, there is plenty of protection and it doesn't require any specialized skills. If you want to take the harder option (5.9), go straight up from the belay to a thin crack and a reachy, balancy move past this bulge. Continue up the thin crack until it disappears in the slab, and step right. Continue climbing the slab, getting what gear you can, and keeping your head in the game. The climbing is quite easy - just don't let the small gear and wide spacing scare you too much.

    Both options merge at a grassy ledge. Keep forging upwards on this solid, easy, but hard-to-protect section. There are two bolted anchors near each other, both are the same bolts from the same year. The higher pair allow you to belay on a comfortable ledge.

    Rappel from here to the first pitch anchor, then to the ground.

    Location 

    Start up the left side of the auditorium, and follow a faint trail until you come to an open grassy section. Look up and identify some shiny bolts about 25m high. This is the anchor for Freedom Crack.

    Protection 

    Gear 1-4" (double might be nice)
    316 steel (2011)


    Photos of Freedom Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: From below the grassy ledge
    From below the grassy ledge
    Rock Climbing Photo: Freedom Crack from the sloped grassy ledge
    Freedom Crack from the sloped grassy ledge

    Comments on Freedom Crack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Nate Ball
    Administrator
    From: Portland, OR
    Feb 24, 2017

    Since the summer of 2016, this route has been the site of annual peregrine falcon nesting. The nest has been built in a deep, wide horizontal very close to the anchor ledge of the 2nd pitch. The entire Grand Auditorium is closed to climbing from roughly February to July, and it is advised to avoid this route until the final chick has left the nest, which may happen as late as August.

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