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(f) Cocaine Gully
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YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alan Watts?
Page Views: 5,906
Submitted By: adam brink on Jun 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Onsight attempt

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


A Smith classic with bomber, vertical stone and excellent climbing. After a mid height technical crux this route turns to sweet reaches between incut crimps. The good climbing seems to go on forever!


Freebase starts just to the left of Vomit Lunch and up on a higher level. Be careful at the belay ledge as it is easy to send rocks (or a person) down on to climbers below. Stick clipping the first bolt is a very good idea (and I think stickclipping is usually kind of wimpy:).



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By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jun 13, 2012

This is definitely a killer line with fun moves on perfect rock, but I did find the movement to be somewhat committing. The bolt line is a wee bit spaced and consistently off to the left side of the holds. I took a 15 footer off the crux, so don't expect to be pulling the hard moves with a bolt at your chest...
By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Mar 26, 2014

While belaying a friend on this I found that with having the 1st bolt clipped, it was very hard to give a soft catch. As max was saying, any fall results in a decent sized whipper and the first bolt is weirdly positioned only a few feet above you from where you belay. We found softer catches were possible by stick clipping the second bolt. If you think that is lame, then expect somewhat of a hard catch, or just send the route!
By DanLing
Aug 22, 2016

caveat emptor - the top two glue in bolts move about 20-45 degrees in their hole.
By Brendan O'Dea
Mar 5, 2017

Bolts appear to have been re-glued.

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