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Free Trad Movie until the 20th
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Nov 12, 2012
hotaches.com/

Amazing video and some big wips!!!!!

Spred the word!

And Enjoy!
a.brown
From bend, Or
Joined Apr 24, 2011
54 points
Nov 12, 2012
bump a.brown
From bend, Or
Joined Apr 24, 2011
54 points
Nov 12, 2012
I just got done watching the movie and thought it was good.

I like how they talked about the mental aspect of climbing above gear / trad climbing and the risk. I could relate to what they were saying and was actually nice to hear how other people feel when climbing at their level grades.

The whole mentality of the movie was appealing. Periodically my interest would fade but overall like said, was good.

Some really cool routes, bad ass chicks, hard climbs and good music.
Zeke6
From Akron, Ohio
Joined Feb 6, 2011
96 points
Nov 12, 2012
i luuuv how the sport weenie chick has a bigger set of brass ones than most people and climbs harder trad than us intraweb wannabes ;) bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
3,068 points
Nov 13, 2012
Do they have gear beta for their onsights? Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
4,096 points
Administrator
Nov 13, 2012
My wife asked me that very thing last night when she saw them hanging their racks up at/near the middle of the route. The only answer I could muster (discarding the obvious that they had gear beta) was that was the point at which they felt they would still be protected from groundfall so they dropped extra weight to go for it. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,370 points
Nov 13, 2012
I am SO in love with Hazel Findlay. camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Joined Jun 27, 2006
1,322 points
Administrator
Nov 13, 2012
She is pretty humble and hot and skilled and muscular and breathtaking. She wears big silly hats too, which I dig. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,370 points
Nov 13, 2012
Darren Mabe wrote:
Do they have gear beta for their onsights?


The way they described their guidebooks makes it seem like the descriptions might include a little. I'm sure some of the heady routes have bits such as "No gear after the small roof" or something along those lines.
Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Joined May 7, 2010
267 points
Nov 13, 2012
Fun video. Hazel is... amazing! Thanks to HotAches for sharing this video. NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Joined Dec 6, 2009
71 points
Nov 13, 2012
yeah...any definitive answer on the gear-ditching thing? I was thinking

A. leaving excess weight once they've protected themselves from a groundfall, bringing extra because they had no info on the gear, or


B. weighting the pieces to prevent them from lifting up


C. they are possessed by some sort of spirit and they have no idea why they do it



D. idk
Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Joined May 4, 2011
699 points
Administrator
Nov 13, 2012
Ben Botelho wrote:
yeah...any definitive answer on the gear-ditching thing? I was thinking A. leaving excess weight once they've protected themselves from a groundfall, bringing extra because they had no info on the gear, or B. weighting the pieces to prevent them from lifting up C. they are possessed by some sort of spirit and they have no idea why they do it D. idk


lol. That was pretty much my entire thought process on it too.
Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,370 points
Nov 13, 2012
I suspect they are bringing everything on the onsight attempt ... You never know whats going to be up there

Once you get high enough to get a better idea, ditch the weight
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
3,068 points
Administrator
Nov 13, 2012
Really cool to see some of these areas after having climbed at them. I totally agree with Hazel that sometimes it's hard to push yourself here. It's just so mentally taxing. There really isn't that many hard routes here with obviously good gear. Most routes over E3 look like they should be bolted. Either that or you're standing up against the wall with waves crashing behind you and you have no chance to see any of the route from the ground. It's kind of crazy.

As far as ditching the gear:

On Tombola (E7) and My Piano (E8) you can see where your last good gear is when your standing on the ground. These routes aren't that tall - maybe 50 feet. You can gain enough info from the ground so that you know if you fall from the top, as long as the gear in that horizontal holds, you are not going to deck.

So you take all your gear so that you can have a lot of options for the last horizontal - and once you're happy with the nest you've built, you commit to the top. Even if there MAY be some tiny stopper placements above the horizontal, what's the point? You're safe from the ground and almost to the top.

But it does say "flash" when it introduces the routes. Probably says "flash" just as many times as "onsight." That means someone has given them a lot of beta.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,458 points
Nov 13, 2012
They all climb on double ropes, exclusively. Many of the routes seem short and not wandering. Any idea why? Is this a UK thing?

Of course, the French girl clips them as twins.
coldatom
From Cambridge, MA
Joined Sep 20, 2011
75 points
Administrator
Nov 13, 2012
That was a really enjoyable hour of climbing. I was especially impressed with the audio.

coldatom wrote:
They all climb on double ropes, exclusively. Many of the routes seem short and not wandering. Any idea why? Is this a UK thing? Of course, the French girl clips them as twins.

On one of Hazel's last routes in the movie I noticed she clipped them as twins initially on a pitch, then switched to clipping them separately later in the pitch and finished the pitch clipping them again as twins. I've always been under the impression that's not a good thing to do. Thoughts?
Jason Halladay
From Los Alamos, NM
Joined Oct 19, 2005
10,520 points
Nov 13, 2012
Quality film, tradical! P. Sully
Joined Aug 30, 2011
458 points
Nov 14, 2012
Jason Halladay wrote:
That was a really enjoyable hour of climbing. I was especially impressed with the audio. On one of Hazel's last routes in the movie I noticed she clipped them as twins initially on a pitch, then switched to clipping them separately later in the pitch and finished the pitch clipping them again as twins. I've always been under the impression that's not a good thing to do. Thoughts?


i emailed mammut and they said its totally fine ...

you had a question on your Mammut rope Phoenix 8mm and whether it can be used in twin and half rope technique in one single pitch. This is the case, you can always clip the two rope strands as twins, then split them as doubles, join again etc. This is exactly the advantage of half ropes compared to twin ropes where you always need to clip both ropes.

Hope this helps you,
best regards from Switzerland,


Productmanager Climbing Equipment


i suspect the cute blond brit knows what she is doing better than all of us intraweb tough guys ;)
bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
3,068 points
Nov 14, 2012
I know nothin' about being an interweb tough guy, but I do know cute when I see it....and Hazel is that! Doug Lintz
From Kearney, NE
Joined Apr 19, 2004
1,216 points
Administrator
Nov 14, 2012
bearbreeder wrote:
I emailed mammut and they said its totally fine ... I suspect the cute blond brit knows what she is doing better than all of us intraweb tough guys ;)

Nice to hear and agreed.
Jason Halladay
From Los Alamos, NM
Joined Oct 19, 2005
10,520 points
Nov 14, 2012
Best film from these guys yet! Thanks for the link Kyle Pease
From Missoula, MT
Joined Apr 30, 2011
49 points
Administrator
Nov 14, 2012
coldatom wrote:
They all climb on double ropes, exclusively. Many of the routes seem short and not wandering. Any idea why? Is this a UK thing? Of course, the French girl clips them as twins.


It is definitely a UK thing. Even on straight routes, Skinny doubles are the standard here, and most times you need them. Even when the routes don't wander, the pro sometimes does. Doubles keep you from having to sling stuff out, which is good since many routes have cruxes that are close to ground fall territory.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,458 points
Nov 14, 2012
Is it still free? All I see is that they are discounting the movie only Bang Nhan
From Charlottesville, VA
Joined Dec 12, 2010
44 points
Nov 14, 2012
Hands are sweating...cool vid! Brandon Groza
From Bend, OR
Joined Jan 15, 2011
277 points
Nov 15, 2012
I turned the sound off. Good climbing and cute girls. Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
185 points
Nov 15, 2012
Awesome Flick!

The Soundtrack was great and lots of great commentary.

Keep 'em coming Hot Aches!
Richard Fernandez
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Nov 23, 2008
800 points


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