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Upper Fifth Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
7) Identity Crisis S 
???? S 
Black Diamond T,S 
F.S.R. S,TR 
Free Taters For Out Of Staters S 
Gyno Boy S 
In Reverse S,TR 
Layback S 
Lost Arrow Spur S,TR 
LSH T,TR 
Mangled up in blue S 
Mangler, The S 
Peter Beater S,TR 
Spur of the Moment S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Free Taters For Out Of Staters 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Scott Coldiron on Jul 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

A great route! The start is steep and the first bolt is high. Unless you're very solid at the grade, I'd recommend bouldering up Lost Arrow to clip the first bolt, then lower down to start.

This is not a great TR route. I've got one friend with scars on his back from a TR fall at the crux.
The tree lurks just behind you, but is not a problem on lead.

A strenuous and steep start on good holds leads into sidepulls, slopers, and small crimps till you hit the next jug above the last bolt. The crux is at the fourth bolt. It's stout and not obvious.

Location 

The first route you get to on the East wall of the Upper Fifth. It's right behind the big tree.

Protection 

6 bolts to chains.


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By Chuck McQuade
From: Golden, CO
Oct 16, 2010

Due to some loose rock before the high first bolt. I Would second the recommendation on starting up lost arrow, at the second bolt traverse left to the first bolt for FTFOS, then lower.
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Mar 9, 2015

It would be a good idea to protect the first moves with gear... I know of one strong climber who decked before he could reach the first bolt. I believe a good purple C4 and a marginal #4 protected him through the start on his redpoint burn.