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Upper Fifth Canyon
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7) Identity Crisis S 
???? S 
Black Diamond T,S 
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F.S.R. S,TR 
Free Taters For Out Of Staters S 
Gyno Boy S 
In Reverse S,TR 
Layback S 
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Free Taters For Out Of Staters 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: Scott Coldiron on Jul 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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A great route! The start is steep and the first bolt is high. Unless you're very solid at the grade, I'd recommend bouldering up Lost Arrow to clip the first bolt, then lower down to start.

This is not a great TR route. I've got one friend with scars on his back from a TR fall at the crux.
The tree lurks just behind you, but is not a problem on lead.

A strenuous and steep start on good holds leads into sidepulls, slopers, and small crimps till you hit the next jug above the last bolt. The crux is at the fourth bolt. It's stout and not obvious.


The first route you get to on the East wall of the Upper Fifth. It's right behind the big tree.


6 bolts to chains.

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By Chuck McQuade
From: Golden, CO
Oct 16, 2010

Due to some loose rock before the high first bolt. I Would second the recommendation on starting up lost arrow, at the second bolt traverse left to the first bolt for FTFOS, then lower.
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Mar 9, 2015

It would be a good idea to protect the first moves with gear... I know of one strong climber who decked before he could reach the first bolt. I believe a good purple C4 and a marginal #4 protected him through the start on his redpoint burn.
By Jacob Schmidt
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 7, 2017

As of today, I'm not sure if this route will go from the ground anymore (at least not at the grade). After years of freezing and thawing, and helped along by people weighting that .5 cam placed before the first bolt, a significant chunk of rock has fallen. Chris and I climbed the route today and I pulled a large hold off from the big undercling below the first bolt while on a toprope.

To climb the route now one must traverse in from Lost Arrow to clip the first bolt (which has always been the safer way to climb this route anyway).

In mine and Chris' opinions, it's better that we lose some good holds on a single route than anyone lose there lives pulling this thing unexpectedly. Considering the size of what came loose, a climber having not yet clipped in would have been hospitalized and if their belayer was standing underneath they certainly would have been killed.

Kudos to whoever can figure out the new sequence, but I'd advise you to traverse in and clip the bolt first.

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