|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Scott Coldiron on Jul 8, 2009|
|Comments on Free Taters For Out Of Staters||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Chuck McQuade
From: Golden, CO
Oct 16, 2010
|Due to some loose rock before the high first bolt. I Would second the recommendation on starting up lost arrow, at the second bolt traverse left to the first bolt for FTFOS, then lower.|
By Nick Sweeney
From: Spokane, WA
Mar 9, 2015
|It would be a good idea to protect the first moves with gear... I know of one strong climber who decked before he could reach the first bolt. I believe a good purple C4 and a marginal #4 protected him through the start on his redpoint burn.|
By Jacob Schmidt
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 7, 2017
As of today, I'm not sure if this route will go from the ground anymore (at least not at the grade). After years of freezing and thawing, and helped along by people weighting that .5 cam placed before the first bolt, a significant chunk of rock has fallen. Chris and I climbed the route today and I pulled a large hold off from the big undercling below the first bolt while on a toprope.
To climb the route now one must traverse in from Lost Arrow to clip the first bolt (which has always been the safer way to climb this route anyway).
In mine and Chris' opinions, it's better that we lose some good holds on a single route than anyone lose there lives pulling this thing unexpectedly. Considering the size of what came loose, a climber having not yet clipped in would have been hospitalized and if their belayer was standing underneath they certainly would have been killed.
Kudos to whoever can figure out the new sequence, but I'd advise you to traverse in and clip the bolt first.