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Free Range Chook 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 806
Submitted By: sqwirll on May 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Getting ready for the crux.

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


I'd give this route 4 stars if were just a little longer. This route starts out pulling a steep section on jugs. Then the crack goes from hands to fingers, with a thin crux at the top.

We cleaned this route in January and it has held up well so far. It dries fairly quickly after rain.


Go to the far left (West)end of Shady Lane and locate the obvious crack. Walk off the left side of the cliff.


Gear to 3", with mainly finger sized pro.. One fixed pin protects the crux move. Belay off trees at the top.

Photos of Free Range Chook Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping the fixed pin.
Clipping the fixed pin.
Rock Climbing Photo: free range chook, 10b, aug 2016.  it doesn't l...
BETA PHOTO: free range chook, 10b, aug 2016. it doesn't l...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route
The route

Comments on Free Range Chook Add Comment
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By Todd Miller
From: MT
May 19, 2009

Excellent route. It protects very well. Great route for those wanting to break into 5.10 climbing and it can also be easily toproped.
By Mark Straub
From: Berkeley, CA
Oct 23, 2010

Good route, but hard crux right at the top! I was expecting a 5.10b tips lock, and instead there was nothing but a flaring pocket. All the other moves are cruiser, and it protects great.
By Laurel Fan
Jun 13, 2011

Still clean! We climbed this because we thought it was the first pitch of Davis-Holland (I know...). I was expecting 5.9! Oops!

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