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South Face
Routes Sorted
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3rd Rail, The T 
Bears in Heat T 
Blade Runner T 
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 
Blownout T 
Borderline T,S 
Cloud Nine T 
Couchmaster T 
Cruisin' T 
Excalibur T,S 
Fear of Flying T 
Flying Dutchman T 
Flying Swallow T 
Free for All T 
Free For All, Direct T 
Free for Some T 
Fresh Squeeze T 
Jensen's ridge T 
Jill's Thrill T 
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 
Little Wing T 
Lost Warriors T 
Norseman, The S 
Old Warriors Never Die S 
Pipeline T 
Reasonable Richard T 
Rhythm Method S 
Right Gull T 
Rise Up T 
Rock Police T 
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T,S 
South East Corner T 
Stone Rodeo S 
Wild Turkeys T 
Windsurfer T 
Windwalker T 
Winter Delight T,S 
Young Warriors T 

Free for Some 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: When Dry
Page Views: 2,505
Submitted By: Karsten on Nov 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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BETA PHOTO: Free for Some is the climb to the right of the rap...

Beacon Rock is open from July 15, 2016 through February 1st, 2017. See note for more details. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A testpiece of Beacon climbing. Free for Some starts in the thin crack to the right of the Windsurfer corner. Hard moves off the ground with the crux coming down low has led to more than one injured climber. Climb up the gradually widening crack to an intermediate anchor or continue up to a ledge and bolted anchors with chains.

Location 

Located to the right of Windsurfer this obviously nice crack has a characteristic zig-zag feature 20ft off the deck. A two rope rappel can get you all the way down or use intermediate anchors and two single rope raps.

Protection 

Standard rack including small wires (offset aliens useful). The are sometimes a few fixed pins on the route.


Photos of Free for Some Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A Basalt Beauty
BETA PHOTO: A Basalt Beauty

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By slim
Administrator
Aug 8, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

kind of finnicky gear at the crux, with a blade flake sticking up out of the ground to land on. take your time and make sure you have good gear. great route.
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Dec 14, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The crux of this route feels very stout for those of us with fat fingers. I couldn't get anything out of the chalked seam. Great route though!
By Dan Flynn
Administrator
From: MA
Aug 5, 2012

Fingertips only for me... super aesthetic line, have to come back for the send!
By the professor
Sep 21, 2013

In the early 1980s there was a solid fixed pin at the crux which made the lead somewhat easier. Then someone removed the pin claiming that RPs can be used. This is true, but putting a QD on a pin uses much less energy than fiddling with RPs!
By Steve Wolford
Nov 30, 2013

One 70 meter rope will get you off if you swing left at the base to higher ground, instead of having to use 2 ropes.
By William Rhyne
From: Casper, Wyoming
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Red point flashed this this line last night 9-14-14 (not to sure its 180feet long). Olds pins are easily backed up with tiny cams. Didn't expect the top to pack as much punch as it does! highly recommended great route!
By Stephen Sh
From: Portland
Aug 8, 2016

If you climb the upper portion of this route to the ledge above the second half, be extremely careful about the final 5’ of climbing. The block that you’ll be jamming is loose and sits on a down-sloping surface. It wobbles slightly when pressured and has moved outward and down approx. 1.5 inches during the 2016 season.