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Free For All, Direct 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,091
Submitted By: Nathan Scherneck on Aug 10, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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'Free for All', Beacon Rock

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on the left side of the pillar. Starts with good jams and gear. The crack opens up and pinches back down allowing you to sling the pillar at a couple spots. Pull onto the pillar, rest, and continue up the sustained 5.8 of FFA.

Location 

Left of the proper FFA start, right of the Free For Some start.

Protection 

Pro to 3". Bolted anchor.


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Jul 17, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A 70m or two ropes is required to get off the route in a single rap. Otherwise you can rappel to the intermediate anchor of Free For Some and transition from a hanging position (not recommended). If there are climbers on the second pitch of Dod's Jam then set a gear belay slightly lower or, if not continuing higher, move left to the Free For Some top anchor.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Jul 22, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Climbed it today while linking it with Dod's and Dastardly. I carried and definitely enjoyed having doubles in cams from BD #.5-4... yes, even the bigger cams were used. I also placed lots of nuts. This pitch is LONG, but can still be rapped with a 70m from the poorly-located rappel anchors.
By Healyje
From: PDX
1 day ago

I do that with:

Two sets of HB/DMM Alloy Offsets (#7-11)
One WC #10 (Silver) Rock
Metolius MasterCams 1-#1, 1-#2, 1-#5, 2-#6, 2-#7, 1-#8 (just 1-#6 and nothing larger if not doing Dods / Dastardly)

From the ground to the perch anchor I use all HB/DMM offsets except for a #5 and a #7 MasterCam.

You can make it to the tree on a 60m.

I do the offwidth up to the tree with just a DMM #11 Offset and the WC #10 Rock at 1/3rd and 2/3rds of the way up the offwidth respectively, both in perfect placements back in the crack and from good stem stances - if you want more than that you'll need large cams.

Above the tree on Dods and on most of Dastardly it's pretty much cams.

Should be rate 4 stars - definitely a classic.

YMMV...

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