REI Community
Ministry Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burning Inside S 
Effigy S 
Free Beaks T 
Land of Rape and Honey S 
Mile High Club S 
Never Believe S 
Never Believe (extended) S 
New World Order S 
Pocketful of Funk S 
Stigmata S 
Twitch (easy start) S,TR 

Free Beaks 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 627
Submitted By: Patrick O'Donnell on Sep 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


Climb Twitch or Easy Twitch start to the anchor ledge at about 70'. Clip anchor draw and continue into the dihedral corner that is the start of the old aid route "Beaks of Paradise". Place small cams to a crux about halfway with 2 bolts. These bolts were placed next to the 2 bashies that were removed to make this a free climb. Do a desperate dihedral crux to a stance and place small cams through easier ground to a bolted anchor above an old stump.


to the right of "Rites of Spring"


2 bolts + small cams to BD .5. doubles .00 and .0

Comments on Free Beaks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Patrick O'Donnell
Sep 7, 2014

An incredible splitter dihedral that I can't believe hasn't been free climbed before. Took a little cleaning to bring it to conditions but the result is splitter granite dihedral climb for the sending! Go do it!
By Katiebird
Sep 14, 2014

Just climbed this today - another good one by the POD. Really quality climbing, incredibly thin and techy dihedral.
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Jun 13, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Clean & beautiful. At 6'1" it felt easier than the given grade. I'm hoping the gear list doesn't detour people from jumping on it. the pro was all pretty good. Bring a couple larger Hb brass offsets for the small section after the second bolt. Thanks for your work in putting up this route.
By Jeff Scheuerell
May 20, 2016

Not trying to offend anyone. The few people that I know of that have sent this route are umpteen times stronger than me. Maybe that is the problem, you don't need to figure it out, you just crank harder. I worked on this route for an hour or so on tr and could not figure it out...ok 5.12? Then I watched Austin walk it like it was 5.10. I thought maybe a height thing? Then I got back on it and followed Austins beta and bam I could do it. I do not feel that I am climbing 5.12 right now on a good day???
By Patrick O'Donnell
May 31, 2016

Consensus seems to be easier than 12c. So maybe more like 12a or b.
By Alex Shainman
Sep 13, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The corner is short but really cool and a fun diversion from the crimpin nearby. I'd recommend having extra cams in the mid/larger sizes listed above...
Definitely seemed height dependent. Great addition!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About