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Free At Last 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: July 4, 1999
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: Shaun Roundy on May 15, 2009

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Description 

Pitch 1: Easy trad, good pro up the crack, but you may want to belay from the crack before reaching the shoulder, because there's no pro there. 5.7 if that.

Pitch 2: Continue up super-easy climbing from the shoulder. Belay from the small tree. Practically 4th class. Maybe find something more exciting just over onto the face inside the fold.

Coup D'etat option: At the shoulder at the top of the first pitch, cut out left and climb up the awful, unprotectable, exposed, rotten slab. Then turn around and come back. Not recommended, both because it's lame and there's a lot of loose rock and it's kinda sketchy and your belay may not be all that solid in the first place.

Rappel from the tree at the edge of the cliff into the fold. Bring some new webbing as the only stuff there may be 10 years old with a rap ring on it.

Land on the huge chock stone. Downclimb from here or pull the rope and thread it through the big holes in the rock to rap the last 15'.

If you want to rap over the other side into the Provo Canyon side, you're gonna need a LOT of rope. Also a really good helmet to save you from major rockfall potential.

First Ascent: Shaun Roundy and Chris Barksdale, July 4, 1999.

Location 

After traversing the cliff band to the centerfold area, ascend the first crack on your left as the fold begins.

Protection 

Small to medium nuts.


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