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Upper Breadloaves - East
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Fred Rassmussen 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Greg Lowe, Brad Rogar, 1970s
Page Views: 2,851
Submitted By: David Tvedt on May 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (112)
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Tyler working his way up the hand crack. If you lo...

Description 

This crack line was named based on the very old "Fred Rasmussen" scrawled with axle grease on the rock at the base of the climb. A rather short but enjoyable hand crack leads to a large ledge. Probably the most popular climb on the wall.

Location 

At the far right of the area. Scramble up to the high spot on the upper east side and look for the name.

Protection 

Gear to 2". Rap Anchors at the top.


Photos of Fred Rassmussen Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The splitter hand crack on Fred Rasmussen.
BETA PHOTO: The splitter hand crack on Fred Rasmussen.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff climbing the awesome hand crack on Fred Rasmu...
BETA PHOTO: Jeff climbing the awesome hand crack on Fred Rasmu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamming near the top
Jamming near the top

Comments on Fred Rassmussen Add Comment
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By TobinPetty
From: Nampa, ID
Jul 25, 2006

Finger to hand size jam crack. Sustained jamming and decent exposure make this a must do on the Upper Breadloaves East buttress.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
May 27, 2008

Wish it was about 50 feet longer.
By Price
From: SLC, UT
Sep 7, 2008

I agree with Sqwirrl. Not the 80' that the guidebook says it is. Cool climb though.
By JeffM
From: SLC
Sep 9, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

great route- hard for its grade. I call it 5.9.
By Mike Roghaar
May 20, 2010

Fun and sustained, just a little shorter than I hoped it would be. The 11 pitch above looks great.
By Hendo Henderson
From: Denver, CO
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

A little tougher than I anticipated. The first crack was fingers for me (5'11" 175lbs). The second crack was wicked smooth (polished?) and half of it was thin hands, which ultimately made my jams feel only semi-secure. Good route though, just not what I was anticipating/wishing-for (Indian Creek splitter crack, haha)
By KB
From: Moab, UT
Mar 27, 2015

Good beginner trad lead and with great hand jams, too bad it's probably no more than 40 feet unless you place gear on the approach.
By atfarley farley
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 18, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

more of a strength climb than a finesse climb, crack looks wider front he bottom than it is.
By Petsfed
From: Laramie, WY
Sep 27, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Seems like you could dodge the 5.8 portion of this by scrambling up 3 feet to the left. You could also bump up the grade to 5.9 by avoiding the flake to the right of the fingercrack.

Over way too fast, but a good variety of jamming. I sewed it up with singles from 0.5 to 4.
By Matt Wenger
From: Bozeman
Jul 11, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I can't stop thinking about how good this crack is. This is one of the best splitter cracks at the city. Get on it! Sadly, WAY too short.

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