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(3) Phoenix
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Carabid T 
Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em S 
Fred On Air S 
Hissing Llamas S 
JT's Route S 
License To Bolt S 
Phoenix S 
When Llamas Bolt S 

Fred On Air 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rick Lince, 1987
Page Views: 1,848
Submitted By: David Tvedt on Apr 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (91)
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fred on air - mark kerns climbing - 1985ish.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


A tricky crux past a bulge down low can be bypassed by cheating left to the arete. The best part of the route is above this in the steep, beautiful finishing slab, finessing moves between small pockets.


Just left of License To Bolt (which has ring bolts) and right of the shallow dihedral.


Bolts with top rap anchors.

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By James Traub
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

This is a great climb! I have yet to do License to Bolt, but I have done the rest of the climbs on the Phoenix and this is definitely my favorite. The moves flow well and don't feel contrived. Only possible downside is that the route feels a tad runout, especially towards the top.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Jun 9, 2008

I liked this climb too. Didn't feel like I was cheating by moving left down low. The select guide says the bottom moves wander a bit so I followed the holds. The route to the right has glue ins. Also really liked the upper face.
By donggua
From: Corvallis, Oregon
Jun 19, 2013

great route. the crux is way more fun go straight up
although seems way harder than cheating left and using the juggy pockets there, once you are committed to the smaller holds, its not that hard
By Bryan Hall
From: Portland, Oregon
Jul 25, 2013

Great route on solid rock. Fun crux and then enjoyable climbing afterwards!
Jul 8, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The best 5.10+ onsight I have had the pleasure of bagging at Smith Rock. Can't say enough good things about it. Get on it!

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